How to tighten the nut on a balljoint

[Dougal]

Hi All
Had a bit of difficulty last night under the car(nothing new here). I was installing new steering side rods with Nylock nuts as apposed to castlated ones with split pins.

The crossrod was not on so the siderods went on easily. However when I started to do up the nut, the balljoint itself just started turning. The friction of the Nylock was greater than the friction in the balljoint.

This must be a common problem, i tried pulling down on the side rod jacking the car up and down to get some more force on the joints to with no joy.

My solution was to grind a slot in the end of each thread. I put the nut on finger tight and then heald the bolt(and balljoint still with a screwdriver in my new slot. Using this method I was able to tighten the nut.

Question is there a simpler way of doing this?? I have new tierod ends to install and would prefer not to have to grind slots in them if possible.
Cheers
Dougal

 

[GregW]

I seem to recall seating the ball joints with a big wooden mallet.

 

[Cottontop]

On large diameter bolts such as that, I have drilled a shallow, small diameter, hole and held the bolt from turning with a (left hand) easy-out.

Classis Mustangs are notorious for having that problem.

Tim

 

[RonMacPherson]

need to apply pressure on the joint so that it seats into whatever it is going into.
I used to use a large pair of channel locks to clench the joint and the seating part together with one hand and tighten the wrench with the other hand.

Course if you are laying on your back under the car a jack and blockof wood under the joint would probably work well, also.

 

[red57]

Hi Dougal,

Try using a non-nylock nut first to draw the tapered ball joint into the steering arm and tighten to proper torque. Then remove the plain nut and put the nylock nut on - the ball joint won't turn because it's aready seated into the tapered hole.

Dave Phillips

 

[andybj8]

Just done this 2 days ago and had same problem.Heres what I did:

First fit the end into the steering arm on idler or column, use a c clamp to pull in if you need to, if you let the other end hang, you can bend the joint fully down till it locks the ball against the joint, then while holding here tighten up the nut.

To do the other end, remove the steering arm from the back of the hub, again loosely fit and press on with c clamp. Then, again move the arm till it locks the ball in the joint (your basically making a small angle so it locks), then again install and tighten the nut, then fit the arm to the hub.

Took me a while to figure out but works really easily. Why dont they fit flat shoulders or an allen head to the end?

cheers Andy

 

[Randy Forbes]

Hi Dougal,

Try using a non-nylock nut first to draw the tapered ball joint into the steering arm and tighten to proper torque. Then remove the plain nut and put the nylock nut on - the ball joint won't turn because it's aready seated into the tapered hole.

Dave Phillips

That's an excellent tip!

I will add: make sure the mating surfaces of both the tapered pin and the hole are as absolutlely clean and dry as you can get them, and the taper-fit should lock the two together to prevent spinning.

That said, I always put Kopr-Shield on those fittings, because I know that some day, I'll be taking them apart to replace again.

 

[healeynut]

talk of mallots, balls and nuts is making me queezy

 

[zblu]

I use a nickel based anti seize product in preference to a copper based one

 

[Dougal]

Hi All,
Sounds like this is a common problem with many solutions.
Looks like you can bash them, grind them, drill them, squeeze them or whack them with a peace of wood.
My method worked well but I think full marks should go to red57's non destructive solution, "use a non nylock nut first to get the taper tight".

Cheers
Dougal