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How To Remove Driveshaft?

Wana

Jedi Hopeful
Offline
I want to remove my driveshaft to take it in to have it balanced. Is this a job that a novice can do? Are any special tools required? Are there any watch-outs either taking it out or putting it back in? Are there any parts that I would want to look at to see if they need to be replaced? I have grabbed ahold of it and tried to move it around and it does not seem to have any "play" or looseness. How difficult is this task - both removing and reinstalling? Thanks!
 
Hi Wana, I sent you an email, would be glad to help /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
1-Remove front seats.
2-Remove tunnel
3-Remove 4 bolts front
4-Remove 4 bolts back
5-Replace spicers
6-Balance
7-Reinstall 4,3,2,1
8-Drive
 
Hi Wana,

It's not a particularly hard job to do. It's a tight working space for the front flange bolts but no special tools required. You do need something to flatten out the lock tabs to get to the bolts. A chisel usually works well for unfolding the tabs. The rear of the drive shaft attaches to the differential. You can get to this from under the car or removing the rear seat pans. You check the univeral joints by moving them around, seeing if there is any play. Unless they are perfect it's a good time to replace them.

The workshop manual goes over the removal, inspection and refurbishing of the Prop shaft in detail. I highly recommend getting the manual. One workshop recommendation is to clearly mark the mating of the flanges at the gearbox and differential before removing. I use a chisel to place marks on the flanges so the marks are still there when it comes time to assemble.

Cheers,
John
 
Hi Wanna, The drive shaft can uasually be serviced in the car if it has grease fittings on it, if it doesen't and you have no operating complaints I would think the drive shaft is OK.---Fwiw---Keoke- /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/yesnod.gif

P.S. BigHly spelt it out about as simple as you can get.OH! he forgot to tell you to jack up the rear wheels and put the tranny in neutral so you can move the bolts to an accessible point during this operation.
 
Hi Wanna!!

All of what Tracey said except have new lock tabs on hand OR Steel Lock Nuts (Not NyLocs).

And what John said as far as Manual!! But I cannot stress enough that the orientation needs to be "proper" !!/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/confused.gif

See
LBC U-Joints

Even shops will do it wrong if they don't know. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/hammer.gif

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
Ed
 
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