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how to: leaf spring bushing replacement

richberman

Jedi Warrior
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I'm about to replace my rear leave spring bushings and can not unscrew the holding screws to allow the springs to open up. Can I press out the old bushings and replace them without removing these slotted screws? Any ideas on the best way to remove the slotted screws without stripping the heads?
If I do get them apart I have seen some people place teflon between the leaves....does it help and if so what product is used?
thanks,
rich
 
Rich,

I would NOT use teflon. Teflon has a documented propensity to "cold flow", that is to get thinner under constant pressure.

Teflon would be the last thing that I would use.

I recently replaced my original (100-6) rear springs and between the leaves were thin sheets of what looked like tin.

My new (BJ) springs were from Jule and I don't think they had anything between the leaves.

I removed all of the spring eye bushings from the old springs and installed new ones in the new springs without unstacking the leaves.

Tim
 
Hi Rich, you didn't mention what Healey you're working on? We need to know why are you trying to rebuild leaf springs???
 
Cottontop said:
Rich,
...I recently replaced my original (100-6) rear springs and between the leaves were thin sheets of what looked like tin....
Tim

I believe it's zinc. You can buy sheets of zinc; it's used for kitchen countertops among other things. We got leftover zinc sheet from another Healey owner and used it when we rebuilt our BN2's springs.

I've had good luck removing frozen screws with a 3/8" air impact wrench and bits from a cheap Harbor Freight hammer-type set like this:

https://www.harborfreight.com/impact-screwdriver-set-with-case-37530.html.

The driver is crap, but the socket and bits are worth the price. Use the largest bit that will fit in the screw head.
 
Johnny,
It's a Longbridge BN4. The car is in 4000 pieces and I wanted to make sure each part was in great condition before replacing. The old bushings are shot and I have new poly bushings awaiting.
I had read the Lin Rose had placed teflon between leafs, but I had not seen that anywhere else so I thought I'd ask first. Glad I did. Spring shop says my springs are in great condition.
thanks,
rich
 
richberman said:
Did you just pound them out and pound new ones in?

Hi Rich,

No, actually, From the side of the leaf, I drove a cold chisel in between the end of the spring and the leaf, thereby opening the eye a bit.

The old bushings fell out and I slipped in the new ones and removed the chisel, allowing the eye to close.

I would NOT use poly bushings ANYWHERE in a road car.

When I restored my 66 Mustang Fastback,

Timscar3.jpg


I installed poly bushings everywhere. The thing rode like a truck. TERRIBLE !

After 6 months, I took all the HARD poly out and replaced it with stock rubber.

Poly maybe just the ticket in a track car, but not in MY road car!

Tim
 
Cottontop said:
I would NOT use poly bushings ANYWHERE in a road car.

Hi Tim,

Was that red or blue? I have been more than happy with blue poly over the years, only wish they'd change the colour to black so the look like rubber.

Andy.
 
57_BN4 said:
Was that red or blue? only wish they'd change the colour to black so the look like rubber.

Andy,

All of the poly I used was red. There was no blue, for a classic Mustang, in the early 90's.

Somebody is now producing black for a classic Mustang. The bushings are impregnated with graphite for a no-squeak interface when used in places like leaf spring and sway bar bushings.

I don't know what the durometer is.

Tim
 
I have (red) poly bushings on my anti-sway bar links and Panhard rod ends. These definitely help make these components work better, but do not contribute to harsher handling.
 
Rich,

I pressed out my spring bushes a few minutes ago using the bench vise and two tube sockets. They aren't in very tight.

Andy.
 
richberman said:
Thanks for all of the advise. I love this forum!!! How did freshman ever restore these without the internet?
rich
Well, during the 70s, we read the shop manuals :wink:
 
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