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"How To" front wheel bearings

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Tinster

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I think Nick Morgan requested I author another
photo essay on how a non-mechanic Triumph owner
like myself can perform a few mechanic type tasks.

So here is ( I hope) a "How To" change out front
wheel bearings. The site mechanical gurus might
take exception, but I now have functional front
wheel bearings and didn't get hurt in the process.

https://viewer.zoho.com/docs/cwZ5e

regards,

PS: I wish there was a way to put pdf documents in WICA.
It would be useful to all.

tinster
 
Wow, excellent Dale. When are you publishing the complete manual? Mr Haynes will be worried!
 
Very thoroughly detailed, Dale. My only input would be to err on the side of caution when cleaning the stub axles of rust, (which I was surprised to see that much in there - salt spray?) The fit between the inner race and the stub should be just barely a slip fit, just past an interference fit. So if anything happens to get in the way of the rollers and the race surfaces, it will simply grind it up and the inner race won't be tempted to spin on the stub. So a steel wire brush is a safer bet for cleaning. Removes rust, but not metal.
 
Dale,
Great job - a true work of art.
Only one problem - some of the pics aren't realistic - hands are not greasy.
 
A compliment on the post.

Critiquing from this end.(It already gets a B+)..

To replace the bearings, it is not necessary to remove the rotor from the hub, but your car with the cleanup needed, it's understandable.

When you reinstall the outer races into the hub, if you have the hub secured on a large vise, or with a block(chunk of metal piping works well) to provide a secure position without the studs hitting you do not have to worry about disloding the studs from the hub.

Dale, go get yourself a ballpeen hammer, or something other than a carpenters hammer. The metal treatment in the carpenters hammer is different than a ballpeen(or so I learned way back in HS autoshop in the late 50's) and I would not like to hear that a chip flew off your hammer and pierced you.

The only major omission I observed, that I would have included was repacking the bearing bodies themselves, showing how you cupped grease in the palm of your hand and pulled the bearing through it with the other hand, until the grease came out of the other side of the roller cage, turning the cage until completely full, then putting a tablespoon full or so between the inner and outer and a teaspoon full inside the dustshield.

These are the only changes I would add to make your posting an A++, again you did a great service for a lot of uninformed out there.
 
Once again, I'm impressed.

Dale, just register a domain name like "cryptyscave" or something and create your own website. Then you can post whatever and however you want.
 
Hey Paul!!

I would love to but I know even less about setting up
web sites than I do about auto mechanics!!

d
 
Tinster
well done, you're the man......
I've downloaded the pdf ready for when I replace my front bearings.
I look forward the see the replacement of the rear wheel bearings!!???
Regards
Craig
 
careful...Tinsters been known to handle some of those BEFORE and AFTER infomercial photo's as well!!!...
good job..you do that while the cane was blowing thru?
 
Interesting tool on page 4 in the picture captioned "Clean all threads with tap".
looks like 4 different size tap sockets with a hex on the other side. Where did you get it?
 
Fogdot-

It is a Sears Craftsman set. The hex shape fits into the
middle of a turning handle. The handle does not fit into
confined spaces. I might have removed the handle to make
the photo.

tinster
 
Dale: This is outstanding. Too bad you weren't a consultant to Bentley!

Question: concerning the powder coating of the hub, which by the way in very smart looking. I want to start my own power coating at home this off-season, because the Gray Lady has lots of bits that would benefit.

Which gun are you using? Where did you buy your supplies? /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thankyousign.gif
 
Hola Frank,

I am using the Eastwood DIY system.

I am very pleased with the gun, powders and finished
results.

Make sure you order at least one extra powder chamber for
the gun. The powder chambers are a mitch to clean thoroughly
when you want to change colors. I have three powder
chambers.

Also, purchase a stand alone, portable oven and use it
outside in a well ventilated area. I bought mine at local
discount store for about $100.

https://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemI...erID=381&KICKER

click image below for enlargement
2503303840085748235LoEUtz_th.jpg
[/url][/img]
 
Ah yes. Eastwood. They're about 20 miles North of me in Pottstown, PA. I'll have to swing by their showroom and take a look.

Dale, I do have a stupid question though. I understand that it is the electric charge that attracts and holds the powder to the piece. But, how sensitive is the newly coated part to movement? I guess I consider myself a bit of a klutz, and I am wondering how hard it is to transfer the part to the oven without the powder coming off?

Also, I have heard that preparation is critical. I assume you are media blasting the part? Are you then using the Eastwood Pre Painting Prep?

Thanks
 
Frank,

Yes electric charge attracts the powder to the part.
Yes, the powder can fall off.

I powder coat 3 feet from my oven, on the same surface.
An easy move sideways for me.

I place the part on a sheet of aluminum foil and
then attach the electrode clip to the aluminum.
(Yes, I have lots of coated aluminum sheets)

Surface prep is important but I have no access to
blasting stuff.

I paint strip, rotary wire brush, wet sand with #400
and then #800 black paper. Then I put on gloves and wash
the part with xylene and put it on the aluminum foil
lined oven tray.

d
 
Wendy must be out of town!! If you baked all of those parts in her oven she will shoot you when she gets home.
 
Nope, Paul-

I baked them in my own oven.

One single time I used Wendy's oven to cook
the dash plinth in gun barrel black. My oven
was too small.

Wendy's housekeeper was at NOT all happy with me when
she tried to clean the oven. BOTH ladies instructed
me strongly to never again use the house oven for non-food
items.

d
 
Ahhhh, OK.

Just curious, but where does one keep a second oven, suitable for powder coating?
 
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