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TR4/4A How pitted can a TR4a brake M/C be?

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tdskip

Yoda
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How pitted can a TR4a brake M/C be and still be usable? I just pulled apart a replacement one I bought and there is fitting in it about 1/2 way down the bore just a big before where the double rings (rings are on the outside of course).

The rest of the bore is smooth, but the pitting there is quite noticeable with my finger.

Thanks!
 
Yup. A 'temporary' dodge would be to throw a kit at it and have the other one sleeved. Rotate 'em when the pitted one starts leaking and have it sleeved.

...in case ya haven't sussed it, I like to have spares of as many system bits onna shelf as possible.


No furniture inna hovel but PLENTY of parts fer th' rolling stock. :wink: :jester:
 
Since the damage done by leaking fluid(not silicone)will eat paint,just before it gets you killed,I like to go first class on brakes."Do it right,do it once,drive it!!"
MD(mad dog)
 
While I agree with the not skimping on the brakes advice, if the only pitting is not where the seal slides across then you might be OK, couldn't tell from your description.
 
I guess you could always switch to DOT 5 (silicone) brake fluid....your cylinder will still leak but the fliud won't be so hard on the paint.
If you are rebuilding your MC, might be the time to switch.

Mikey
 
Please don't use a M/C under any circumstances with even the tiniest internal imperfection.

I've experienced total brake failure in the TR3A and very nearly went under a huge transporter, just because of a tiny score in the master cylinder that was almost invisible to the naked eye.

Either get it professionally re-sleeved with a stainless insert, or purchase a brand new fully assembled M/C as I did.

Believe me, when you pump the brakes, then pump again, and there's absolutely zero pedal pressure approaching a major intersection, it's an experience best avoided.

Viv.
 
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