Hey - did you know if you click on the title of a thread it will take you to the first unread post since you last visited that thread?
but were afraid to ask: 
STOP!! Never post your email address in open forums. Bots can "harvest" your email! If you must share your email use a Private Message or use the 
smilie in place of the real @
Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
Offline
good news, now I can afford to get one.
-
The Roadster Factory Recovery Fund - Friends, as you may have heard, The Roadster Factory, a respected British Car Parts business in PA, suffered a total loss in a fire on Christmas Day. Read about it, discuss or ask questions >> HERE. The Triumph Register of America is sponsoring a fund raiser to help TRF get back on their feet. If you can help, vist >> their GoFundMe page.
-
Hey there Guest!
If you enjoy BCF and find our forum a useful resource, if you appreciate not having ads pop up all over the place and you want to ensure we can stay online - Please consider supporting with an "optional" low-cost annual subscription.**Upgrade Now**
(PS: Subscribers don't see this UGLY banner)
How much for oil change?
- Thread starter Gliderman8
- Start date
Share this page
Offline
agreed - happy enough to do it on the Midget not really interested on the dailys. (also as someone who had to have a Passat engine replaced due to oil sludge it was my oil change receipts that saved me)
Offline
I had a recent shock as well on the daily driver. But then I did the math... parts alone - using OEM - was $50. Plus half hour labor and sales tax - not quite $100, but darn near.
Having said that:
1. Using decent aftermarket parts, I could probably have done it for $30-40.
2. I am a sucker for OE / OE-equivalent, and I am paying the premium for the star-shaped thingie on the front of the car - never mind the mileage and the age.
3. Which brings me to the conclusion, brand matters. Chevy/Ford/etc. have a good base of DIY owners that drive high-quality aftermarket competition and associated good pricing. MB on the other hand... I won't buy a newer one again. Parts are stupid expensive, and the difference vs. a run-of-the mill car is simply not there. (But the price was right... three year old R-class, 6k miles, 50% of new price.... wife said "no" to a minivan... here we are! Car has been wonderful, except the parts costs.)
Having said that:
1. Using decent aftermarket parts, I could probably have done it for $30-40.
2. I am a sucker for OE / OE-equivalent, and I am paying the premium for the star-shaped thingie on the front of the car - never mind the mileage and the age.
3. Which brings me to the conclusion, brand matters. Chevy/Ford/etc. have a good base of DIY owners that drive high-quality aftermarket competition and associated good pricing. MB on the other hand... I won't buy a newer one again. Parts are stupid expensive, and the difference vs. a run-of-the mill car is simply not there. (But the price was right... three year old R-class, 6k miles, 50% of new price.... wife said "no" to a minivan... here we are! Car has been wonderful, except the parts costs.)
Offline
I've friends who are MB specific, independent shopowners, now teaching a third-generation (all family) the MB "ropes". Often we've talked about the specifics of modern Benz units and associated cost of parts. Another thing is the diagnostic equipment required to suss out and fix the things. I've set up a laptop for them to run Linux, specifically to interface with the cars, running proprietary programs, also expensive.
Our diesel had a "cheap" first owner, had the alternator replaced at some point and whoever did it "modified" bracketing and used some domestic unit. It was a true shade-tree cock-up. When that unit failed a few years later, I decided it should have the correct alternator and associated brackets and such. Those few bits cost more than the rebuilt alternator!
Our diesel had a "cheap" first owner, had the alternator replaced at some point and whoever did it "modified" bracketing and used some domestic unit. It was a true shade-tree cock-up. When that unit failed a few years later, I decided it should have the correct alternator and associated brackets and such. Those few bits cost more than the rebuilt alternator!
Offline
Don’t forget to replace the cabin filter for another 75$.
Offline
Having a parts account with MB helps a lot. Back when we still drove a few Mercedes my dad always kept an open parts account with Park Place MB down in Dallas. It made life so much easier anytime we had to order anything.
Offline
Good to know, thank you!
This may come in even more handy should I realize my eventual dream to get a summer daily old Mercedes.
That's the Honda CRV 1.5 Turbo engine. Recognized it by the 3.7Quart capacity with filter. Yes. When changing the oil the 0W 20 flows out like water and spatters. Now oil droplets can be found on my garage floor beyond the catch pan and piece of cardboard intended to protect it! I hate 0W 20! Paid about $30 for filter and good synthetic but would gladly pay someone to do the messy job next time. $100 maybe?
OP
Gliderman8
Great Pumpkin
Offline
My Mazda 3 and my wife’s RAV4 both use 0-20W oil. I’ve never had a problem with splatter. Position the pan, open the plug and drain. The only oil I may have to clean off of the floor is the oil that comes off my gloves.
Offline
The Saab uses 0W20 but the filter is hard to get to and requires a fairly special 36mm socket so, not trusting the quick change places, I do it myself. The explorer, I leave to others although that now seems silly. I can get under it without even jacking it up and to old dino 10W30 is pretty cheap. The Prefect, Beetle and soon (I hope anyway) to be Sprite get my hands only.
Last edited:
Offline
I only farm out the Acura because the front overhang is too long to allow me to use the ramps. The other three I do.
Offline
Just replaced the cabin filter in Wife's Z4. Could not find one in stock at any of the regular parts stores, so called the dealer. They wanted $82!
Ended up called NAPA and they ordered one with next day delivery for $14.
OP
Gliderman8
Great Pumpkin
Offline
Rockauto is where I get my cabin filters. Mine was about $13. Dealer wanted $65 to install a new one.Just replaced the cabin filter in Wife's Z4. Could not find one in stock at any of the regular parts stores, so called the dealer. They wanted $82!
Ended up called NAPA and they ordered one with next day delivery for $14.
Offline
I get a lot of parts from Rockauto. Dealer is only a last resort.
Offline
Just replaced the cabin filter in Wife's Z4. Could not find one in stock at any of the regular parts stores, so called the dealer. They wanted $82!
Ended up called NAPA and they ordered one with next day delivery for $14.
I may have mentioned this before; getbmwparts.com is a “discount” dealership for OEM BMW parts. I’m not sure what vintage Z4 you have, but I found a cabin filter for $32 for a 2014 Z4. Still much more than $14, but way better than 82!
A friendly reminder - be careful what links you click on here. If a link is posted by someone you don't know, or the URL looks fishy, DON'T CLICK. Spammers sometimes post links that lead to sites that can infect your computer, so be mindful what you click.