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TR4/4A how hot does the timimg chain cover get?

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Dash

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I'm ready to paint my engine block ( just basic black) but want to dress up the timing cover a little different. I had the local auto paint supply shop fill a couple rattle cans with ppg argent silver I used on the rear end and transmission and have a little left over. I would like to use that for the cover but it's not rated high heat so was wondering how hot the timing chain cover actually gets. I'm thinking probably no where near what the block would heat up to since it's just behind the fan etc.but I can't remember a time when I had to actually feel it right after a shut down. Could someone give me a hint?
I swear, the more I work on this car the dumber I get!!
 
Probably south of 250ÂşF (120ÂşC) since it is sprayed with engine oil while running but is cooled by air from the radiator fan.
And yes, it probably gets as hot as the main engine block.
This is just my WAG.

M.
 
"...I had the local auto paint supply shop fill a couple rattle cans with ppg argent silver"

Noe there's something new to me. What does it involve?
 
Hi Dash,

I don't have any hard data to support this position but general experience with lots of mechanical components that generate heat when in use.

The basic physics are that heat will always transfer to a cooler area until the temperatures of the 2 areas are equal.

My assessment is that this means that if you run the engine long enough the temperature of the timing cover will become very similar to the surface temperature of the block. The timing cover has a lot of contact area with the block and the plate that mounts to the block. This means lots of opportunity for heat transfer.

I expect that unless you are driving the car hard for long periods of time you will probably only notice some discoloration of the silver paint on the timing cover. I do not expect it will peel or flake especially if you use a high temperature primer under the silver.

Just my thoughts. Hopefully others can provide more relevant input and experiences.

Rusty
 
Thanks..using the high heat primer is a good idea..I figure what the heck, I'll try it.. can't see much when it's all back together anyway..


Arcom,
Its a pretty simple process just pick the color you want ( helps to have the paint code). They mix it and shoot into a rattle can. Unlike the stuff you get off the shelf that more times than not doesn't match the color of the top, you know exactly what color is gonna come out of it. My experience , so far, is that it produces a much nicer spray than the off shelf stuff and rarely clogs.
It's a little pricey but saves time setting up a spray gun/compressor then thinning etc etc.. Not sure what regular paint stores do it but most of the specialty shops can.. I use colorsedge which is a local auto paint supply store but have other outlets as well..
 
Dash,
On my restorations I have used regular spray can paint on the cover. I have a number of years on those covers with no problems.
Charley
 
I have also painted mine with plain rattle-can paint and it has held up fine.

BTW - the claims (made in one vendor's catalog) that all timing covers were coated with some sort of dum-dum is not quite correct. Many were, some were not.
 
BTW - the claims (made in one vendor's catalog) that all timing covers were coated with some sort of dum-dum is not quite correct. Many were, some were not.[/QUOTE]

Out of about five engines that I have dealt with only one had such treatment.
Charley
 
I've used just a standard rattle can epoxy enamel on mine and about to fire it up so I'll be able tell you soon. It's amost certainly going to be fine.
 
It was only recently after I started a full blown restoration and reading post after post about what factory colors were used on the engines had I given any thought whatsoever that mine didn't appear to have ever been painted at all. I've had it since '74 ( a '63 tr4) and the engine is absolutely original to the car. Of course now that I'm actually paying attention to details I was wondering if some engines actually escaped the factory unpainted??
When I got the car it was only 11 years old so I wouldn't think the po would have had reason to have the engine stripped for a serious overhaul unless he/she absolutely abused it but since it isn't painted kinda makes me wonder. Not that it matters now since I have done a total mechanical overhaul so my question is primarily to satisfy my curiousity.
 
All the original Tr engines, I have looked at, have been painted with what looked like a very thin coat of black paint. Some had traces of hand brushed Tr3 or Tr4 markings in red paint on the main block (to the right of the block drain under the manifolds).
I'm willing to bet that the paint on your Tr has come off of over the course of last 54 years due to heat cycling and engine washing/degreasing.
I know on my '63 Tr4 (owned since '71) the only remaining original paint found was between the starter and the block and up near the head/block interface under the manifolds.

M.
 
Merlin63Tr4;1041707. Some had traces of hand brushed Tr3 or Tr4 markings in red paint on the main block (to the right of the block drain under the manifolds. M.[/QUOTE said:
Most every reference I have seen about the "painted TR3 " on the side of the engine says it was red. I have two TR3 blocks where the TR3 on the block looks a lot more like orange than it does red. Am I seeing faded red paint or is it really orange?
Charley
Click to expand...
 
The hand brushed, Tr3-Tr4 markings, I have seen have faded over the years to an orange-red color.
But I believe that the original color to have been a red color and not orange.
So yes you probably saw faded red paint.
M.
 
As to what color you want to paint it that is up to you, VHT and Duplicator both make a silver engine enamel I think, I used this stuff (black color for most parts, some silver. It has all held up really well, I have also painted brake drums with regular rust oleum silver with no problems. (that one really surprised me). If the PPG is a urethane enamel it should hold up pretty well too, that stuff is pretty impervious to chemicals once fully cured.
 
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