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How high is too high

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My ride height in the rear end went up when I did Blind Moose w/ KYB, RGood bushings and adj trailing arm brackets (front is fine w/ Konis).

I did it all at once and may have the trailing arm brackets adjusted wrong, but the springs were TRF uprated and were the same b/f and after.

Haven't worried about it b/c I haven't gone in for a full alignment yet. The ride height looks like Brosky's.

However, the handling is MUCH improved.

-Lee
 
As per MARTX-5's advise:
I measured the vertical distance between the center of the wheel to the edge of the fender. I have Good Parts 1 inch
lower springs (front and back) and Good Part's bushings and adjustable brackets, with about 1.5 degrees of negative camber in the rear.
Front wheel center to edge of fender: 13.5 inch
Rear wheel center to edge of fender: 14.5 inch

I do have the Blind Moose rear tube kit. I first tried
the KYBs, they raised the car up about .5 inch. And I think
they were too stiff for everyday use on LA freeways. Now I have the Monroes (which is the shock used for the above
measurements). Still looking for the "perfect" shock.
 
[ QUOTE ]
Still looking for the "perfect" shock.

[/ QUOTE ]


I ended up with the Spax on the rear. With the comp rear spring and the Spax dialed in for my taste, it works for me.


Bill
 
Those springs will not settle down to the extent Paul is looking for. Hey Paul, did TRF come to the rescue?
TR-6's are supposed to sit level, with equal distance to the ground from the top of the wheel arch. Windshield height won't help in this regard. Ted Schumaker who claims to supply the springs used by Moss and TRF told me the correct measurement (assuming the stock tire diameter for the tires) is 28 5/8" from the ground to the top of the rear wheel arch. Since it's usually the rear that sags, once that measurement has been achieved, the front should follow, perhaps even a bit less. Nevertheless, the car should sit level, and cosmetically as designed fill the wheel wells proportionately with roughly an equal distance gap between the tire and the wheel well. Obviously, to each his own and radically lowering the car will change this proportion.
I'd say from the photos Paul, that the rear is almost perfect - but will become perfect when the front is lowered and the front of the rear wheel well angles downward to fill the gap I see. Assuming the same size tires all around, the only thing you've done that can explain the front being so high are bogus springs. Rip 'em out. Too bad it's not the rears as they are easier to change. But bite the bullet and do it, I know it's a pain. But once finished you'll be glad you did. Good luck.
 
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
Still looking for the "perfect" shock.

[/ QUOTE ]


I ended up with the Spax on the rear. With the comp rear spring and the Spax dialed in for my taste, it works for me.


Bill

[/ QUOTE ]Bill, please tell me the Spax part number you used.
Thanks
Richard
 
The only thing I can see on the shock is the number 28. Hope that helps.


Bill
 
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