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How high is too high

Paul Slice

Jedi Hopeful
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I just finished a complete referb of the suspension and brakes on my 71 TR6 that I bought 6 months ago.

On the front I went with the Roadster Factorys stock height uprated springs, Poly bushings and Koni adjustable shocks along with new trunions and upper ball joints and tie rod ends. New bearing kit along with rebuilt calapers, new Brembo rotors and EBC Greenstuff pads and stainless hoses.

On the rear I used the same type springs from RF, poly bushings, all new Spicer u-joints, Koni shock conversion using the Blind Moose brackets, new wheel cylinders shoes drums and hardware kits.

After a 4 wheel alignment it tracks straight and true and is smooth but it seems to sit to high up in the air now. I did not measure before and after but it appears to be about a inch higher now.
All the pivit points were tightened with the car wheels sitting on ramps to compress the suspension before torquing down.
Hopefully it will settle down some when the parts brake in alittle. It handles good, but reminds me of the way my 78 MGB handled before it was lowered. It feels like it plows into a corner instead of diving in. My 80 Spitfire and my 78 MGB with simular mods, handle better in the corners than the 6 does and I was expecting the 6 to do as good or better than them. Is this a realistic expectation?

What have your experiences been with the uprated springs and does the car look to high in the below pictures?

thanks,
Paul


tr6sus3.jpg


tr6sus2.jpg


tr6sus1.jpg
 
Hello Paul,

it does look a bit high but I would expect to see the springs settle a bit fairly quickly. By the way, what aspect ratio tyres are fitted as that may give an illusion of excessive height if they are lower profile than standard. The springs will still settle however.

Alec
 
/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/iagree.gif

When my TR6 was still stock height I had that kind of space between the tire and wheel arch because I was running a lower profile tire. When I lowered the car though, everything looked right.

/ubbthreads/images/graemlins/cheers.gif
 
I just had the rear springs replaced with TRF stock units and new pads along with rebuilt lever shocks, link kits and bushings. Mine is finally level.

New view:
driveway 0924-03 (Custom).jpg


Old view:
Driveway 001a (Custom).jpg


I picked up about three (3) inches above the rear tires and it rides and handles like a dream.
 
Stock height unladen from ground to top of windscreen 46". Ground clearance (2 up condition whatever that means)6". Of course this is with the red line tires.
 
Whoa, send those pictures into 4X4 magazine, and you might wind up on the front cover! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jester.gif

Seriously, that looks too high to me. Yes, things might settle, but only by MAYBE by half an inch or so. The rear looks like you have positive camber because of the extra height. I really think that the springs are just too long for their increased spring rate. When the spring rates get increased, the spring length should be shortened because they deflect less. Did you check the height of the original spring to the replacement? The replacement should have been shorter. I don't see this settling down any appreciable amount. But, that's just my opinion.
 
Good point Mart. Mine were just about the same height as the take off's but were much harder to get in, so they just don't compress as much as the old weaker springs do.
 
Mine sits at 48" with the top down, so it's right to the frame. Both sides are the same, thank goodness. I never knew that spec existed, but then again, I never looked for it either.

Oops,,,,I forgot to add that I have new 205/70/15 tires.

If the specification allows for a plus 2", minus 1", it's OK, but there has to be some allowance for settling and wear. With that being said, Paul's does look a bit high in the front end. I'd drive it a while and let it settle in after 500-600 miles.
 
Yes it does look abit high in the front.The advice DON'T WORRY BE HAPPY!comes into play. BUT! i think its temporary,& something to think about is 'LOWERING BLOCKS'inserted into a specific area in the coil,It would be temporary at the least until some road time is achieved.Also it won't hurt to find some mild 'SPEED BUMPS'And gently go over them a few times & CHECK THE RESULTS...It may sound quirky but it may work to settle the springs.In any event your showing of your car does ease the pain right?So the world might see the problem..Besides HIGHER is better than LOWER as time goes by...Ken&Whitlightning
 
Paul,
I went throught the very same experiences that you have. A complete suspension rebuild with TRF uprated springs resulted in my car riding way too high. TRF took the spring set back (I thought they had corrected this) and I ended up getting my competition, lowered springs from BPNW.
Their springs lowered my car about an inch over stock, which was fine by me. All told, about 2" below the lever of the first (TRF) springs. I know it is a hassle but your won't be happy until you do it again. I have 205/70 tires that are about 1/2" shorter than a Michelin Redline.


They won't settle down enough for you to be happy. After my total rebuild (and the now correct springs) my ride height hasn't changed a fraction in 4 years.



Bill
 
Paul, I just measured and all 4 tires on my car are 2" below the bottom of the wheel well openings. My tires are just a bit over 25 1/2" in diameter. (Michelin Hydroedge, somewhat low profile. Even had to recalibrate my speedo. It is dead on. How do I know? Got my first speeding ticket going 41 in a 30 zone this weekend. Spot on, dang it. And, my inspection sticker was expired. Thank goodness I have coffee with the Sheriff every morning.)


Bill
 
Thanks Bill,

I will call TRF tomorrow, really looking foward to the front spring removal and reinstall. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/frown.gif



Paul
 
Sorry to see you have to do it, but it will be better if you do it now while everything is freshly installed. Take it from me, after four clutch R&R's, it ain't fun doing a job over when it's not your fault. Not that it's any better if you have to blame yourself either!
 
Paul,
Please tell me that you are using one of those spring compressing tools and not using the method described in the Bentley manual. (jack under the lower spring pan)

Makes it quick to use an impact wrench to tighten the large nut on the threaded rod (using an extra deep socket).


Bill
 
I have the proper tool for the front springs, its lining up the lower A arm pan that I was refering to. While installing the 2nt side I found that if you leave the studs in the rear holes it makes it much easier to line up while compressing the spring.

Will my current front alignment be off if shorter springs are installed but the shims left alone?

Should a TR6 with the upgrades mentioned above handle as well or better than a 80 Spitfire or 78 MGB with simular upgrades?


Paul
 
I too started off with the TRF "stock" springs, but found these made the car look like a 4x4. Swapped them for the TRF low ride uprated springs, and after some itteration, ended up with 1/2 inch spacers at the front and none at the rear. Also used poly spring pads. Looks fine now, perhaps a little lower at the back than stock, with about 2 deg -ve camber. I plan to flip the inside swing arm bracket to bring me back to aprox neutral camber on the rear.

Rob.
 
Yes, it does appear that mine is a bit higher, which I really don't mind at all. My tires are exactly 3" below the fender lines on all 4 corners.
 
I checked mine:
1974 TR6 with Good Parts 1 inch lower springs all the way around, 215/70/15 tires.
46 inches to the top of the windshield header,
front wheelwell lip at 25.5 off the ground thru the center of the axel, and the rear is 27.5 off the ground thru the center of the axel..
I like the a TR looks when it is lowered. Would like mine
to be lower.
Early TR6's were low from the factory, in fact they were too low. Some cars had to have spring inserts installed to bring the headlight height up to the legal height.
 
BTW, the best way to measure ride height is from the center of the wheel perpendicular to the edge of the fender. This method disregards any differences in wheel and tire diameter. Now you are only measuring how high the spring is affecting ride height. If you put on smaller or bigger wheels and tires, this measurement will remain the same with the same spring and shock combination, even though the height of the vehicle changes.
 
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