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How do I fix...
- Thread starter jaybird
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Steve_S
Yoda
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First thing to try is to inspect and lubricate the angle drive if you have one. If it's bad that could do it.
If that's not the problem, remove the speedometer. Put a large flatblade bit into a power drill and use that to spin the speedometer. At a constant drill speed the speedo should be rock steady. If not, have it serviced as there may be contaminants on the plate.
If all is good there as well then replace the cable. I don't know if the one from the local parts house will work or not, I've always ordered mine from Moss.
Good luck!
If that's not the problem, remove the speedometer. Put a large flatblade bit into a power drill and use that to spin the speedometer. At a constant drill speed the speedo should be rock steady. If not, have it serviced as there may be contaminants on the plate.
If all is good there as well then replace the cable. I don't know if the one from the local parts house will work or not, I've always ordered mine from Moss.
Good luck!
Keoke
Great Pumpkin
Offline
Yes JB You can do it youself Just undue the outer cable from the speedo and pull the inner core out reinstall the new inner core and see if that cures it. I tend to stay away from aftermarket parts the ones we get through the LBC sources are bad enough /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/laugh.gif.A small amount of very light oil on the new core is suggested.---Keoke
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Hi Keoke,
I agree. When mine was bouncing around, I replaced the inner cable only. Fixed it perfectly. The old inner had some slight kinks in it.
D
I agree. When mine was bouncing around, I replaced the inner cable only. Fixed it perfectly. The old inner had some slight kinks in it.
D
OP
jaybird
Yoda
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NOT that I've ever sewed in the past 20+ years.
We're tackling the other problem first, then I'll do the speedometer by myself when he's on his next fishing trip, wait to see how long it is before he notices that it is working properly.
Of course, I should do it now since the nails are already shot!
We're tackling the other problem first, then I'll do the speedometer by myself when he's on his next fishing trip, wait to see how long it is before he notices that it is working properly.
Of course, I should do it now since the nails are already shot!
SilentUnicorn
Yoda
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[ QUOTE ]
a spastic speedometer? That thing bounces from 40mph to 80mph at speeds over 3000 rpms. Dahubby doesn't think a new cable will do it, because his '52 pickup did the same thing and he tried 2 new cables. Any suggestions?
[/ QUOTE ]
yea this is ez. if a new cable doesnt work..(i put 10.00 on the "Da Hubby" being right) call Nisonger ..put speedo in box mail to them, and paitiently await its return. My neighbor just got a quote of 120.00 to repair his...um i mean hers...
mark
a spastic speedometer? That thing bounces from 40mph to 80mph at speeds over 3000 rpms. Dahubby doesn't think a new cable will do it, because his '52 pickup did the same thing and he tried 2 new cables. Any suggestions?
[/ QUOTE ]
yea this is ez. if a new cable doesnt work..(i put 10.00 on the "Da Hubby" being right) call Nisonger ..put speedo in box mail to them, and paitiently await its return. My neighbor just got a quote of 120.00 to repair his...um i mean hers...
mark
Steve_S
Yoda
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One other note, try rerouting the cable. Disconnect it from both ends and spin it by hand. Move the cable around and you might feel it tighten or loosen. Do this until you find the loosest route and if you can, zip-tie it in place, then reconnect to the speedo. This can make a big difference!
dklawson
Yoda
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Personally I don't like replacing "just the core" of a cable but that is your choice. The generic kits at AutoZone may work, I've never tried them. The Smiths cables use a 1/8" square drive. If you buy generic, only the core will work... the sheath will definitely have the wrong threads. (Most Smiths speedos have M12x1 threads on them while the gearbox connectors are typically M19x1... U.S. cables are typically 5/8" something).
If you bench test your speedo remember to look at the gauge face before engaging that electric drill. If the needle goes Clockwise (like most), the drill needs to be run in "reverse" to operate things properly. I'm not sure about the threads or direction when the right-angle drives are attached.
The $120 rebuild from Nisonger sounds like a great price if you don't want to work on your own gauge.
If you bench test your speedo remember to look at the gauge face before engaging that electric drill. If the needle goes Clockwise (like most), the drill needs to be run in "reverse" to operate things properly. I'm not sure about the threads or direction when the right-angle drives are attached.
The $120 rebuild from Nisonger sounds like a great price if you don't want to work on your own gauge.