How do I clamp new exhaust and so it won't leak?

[PeterK]

I put a new Falcon SS exhaust on the 3A using a complete new hangar and clamp set from Moss. The outside pipes are slotted on the ends to clamp the inner pipes. Using factory-type clamps, I can't get the pipe to seal leak free. Both joints leak through the slots even though the inner pipe goesway in the outer. I clamped as tight as the clamp allows.

Any advice is appreciated. Should I switch to band clamps instead?

thanks

 

[jerrybny]

Re: How do I clamp new exhaust and so it won't lea

I myself always use Permatex's Muffler and tailpipe sealer whenever I do an exhaust system. Works great and no leaks so far.

 

[PeterK]

Re: How do I clamp new exhaust and so it won't lea

I've been thinking along the same lines too. I used the orange high-temp ATV on my Formula 500 race car and that thing gets really hot, just shy of melting point. Guess I'll pull the pipes apart and try it. Thanks for the tip!

 

[swift6]

Re: How do I clamp new exhaust and so it won't lea

I was taught that when using that type of clamp on exhaust systems to turn the clamp 90 degrees after the first tightening and then tighten it down again. So you have to sort of work backwards. Figure out where you want the final clamp position to be for clearance. Then spin it 90 degrees, tighten down, release the clamp and turn it back to your pre-determined final position and re-tighten.

It still might leak for the first few miles but then seals up. Just tightening these clamps once actually ovals the pipe slightly. The 90 degree turn removes the ovaling and closes the joint much better.

Make sense?

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[Banjo]

Re: How do I clamp new exhaust and so it won't lea

Bubble gum! /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/jester.gif
seriuosly, I think the two previous tips are excellent.
I also make sure to put the clamp far enough back on the pipe so it's before the "split" part

 

[Guest]

Re: How do I clamp new exhaust and so it won't lea

I sealed all my joints with the wide stainless steel band clamps from Stainless Specialties in FL. Under each clamp I place several layers of heavy duty aluminum foil, maybe 6-8 layers and under this against the actual joint I use a layer of asbestos (the asbestos comes in a 2" wide stip on a roll, a leftover from my gold casting days. Not available anymore, but I have enough left to redo my system a few times. Don't worry, the asbestos is only a problem if it is atomized and breathed.) Works well. Band clamps don't distort the tail pipe and allow you to take the system down. Regular u-bolt clamps distort the pipe and screw up any attempt to take them down. The band clamps from St. Special. are the perfect circumference for the Sport Exhaust. They will suck down to within an inch of their lives with no slack and will perfectly secure the pieces of tail pipes without movement. They say not to reuse them but I do.


Bill

 

[PeterK]

Re: How do I clamp new exhaust and so it won't lea

Today I bought a ss band clamp and some joint sealing compound. I coated the both sides of each joint with compound before assembling and cranked down hard on the band clamp. It says to let it dry 3-4 hours minimum so I'll try it tomorrow. On the 3A, the joint at the gearbox to driveshaft link is the toughest because you have no option other than using the original style hanger clamp. We'll see how well it works. Thanks for all the suggestions.

 

[Alan_Myers]

Re: How do I clamp new exhaust and so it won't lea

[ QUOTE ]
On the 3A, the joint at the gearbox to driveshaft link is the toughest because you have no option other than using the original style hanger clamp.

[/ QUOTE ]

Hi Peter,

It's the same on TR4 so I made my own "band clamp". Actually, all I did was insert a sleeve made of scrap stainless steel exhaust pipe under the original style clamp/hanger. The sleeve was slit down one side to allow it to expand and contract a little. The original style clamp/hanger can be tightened more with this sleeve in place, and I think the sleeve will spread the clamping force over a wider area.

I agree with previous reply that often leaks at start up with a new exhaust system will go away in a very short time, maybe because things settle into place or some carbon builds up quickly inside the pipe and helps seal the joint. I wouldn't worry too much about it for the first couple drives, then if it still leaks more attention will likely be needed.

For general purpose joints in the piping, I like to use T-bolt clamps, instead of band clamps. These work great, are wider than the typical, cheap, auto parts store clamps, but aren't super wide like band clamps. T-bolt clamps are also available in stainless steel, to help them last a long time and make them much easier to take apart if need be.

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