• Hey Guest!
    British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!

    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Tips
Tips

Horns no horns

TonyPanchot

Jedi Trainee
Offline
I have found that with the LBC the horn is a must

and now I do not have either

don't know how or why but the 2yr old, Italian made pair I purchased from Roadster no longer function

pulled them and did a direct to the bat. and not a peep

so the question is has anyone else suffered the same fate???

and with that can I get a replacement reccomendation

Thanks All
 
The most common problem with the horn is water inside. They get mounted wrong and then they rust and get wet in side and then fail. I am going to either use air horns next time or put on a Hawooga horn. I think the air horns will stand out more when needed but the Hawooga horn is more of novelty.
 
Andrew Mace said:
TonyPanchot said:
can I get a replacement reccomendation
Short term: try any chain or local auto parts store. They usually have something (fairly cheap) you could wire in at least temporarily.
I've been using one like this for nearly 4 years. I believe that it came from either Advace Auto or Auto Zone.
If your horns already use a relay, just plug this one in.
https://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Stebel-Na...d=p4506.c0.m245
 
The cheapest solution is the FLAPS or even a junkyard horn -- that was what came on my TR3A years ago.

I finally replaced that with a set of original Lucas horns (easy to find on eBay) for the authentic look & sound and (in my case anyway) reliability.
 
In HF the other day, they had a plastic horn for about $7 but I don't see that one on their web site. However, there is this one:
https://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=40135

But if you are using the stock TR250 horn wiring, be sure you get a horn with both terminals isolated from ground. Some of the cheap aftermarket ones want to ground through the bracket, which would be a hassle.
 
One thing to check maybe is if the horns are out of adjustment. At least on my original TR6 horns, I thought they were non-functional because I only heard a little "click" when I'd push the horn button. But I found the adjustment screw and was able to get them both working normally. Don't know about them EYE-talian horns!
 
Tony: I realize that you have already received many good suggestions but here are a few things that you can check and they wont take any time at all.

1. you mention that you removed the horns and tested them. When this is done the horn must be rigidly clamped in a vise. So, be sure that the horn attachment bolts are tight. If loose, the electro-magnet will dissipate too much energy trying to vibrate the entire horn rather than the diaphragm. The result is very weak or no sound.

2. be sure to establish that the horns are receiving good voltage. Have someone press the horn-push while you measure the voltage at the horn. If you have less than 12 volts, look for bad connections, especially poor ground.

3. these horns can be rebuilt - check here for info
horn repair

3. remove the horn push and examine the contacts. if they are badly pitted replace the entire assembly. If they are mildly corroded or dirty try cleaning them.

4. consider adding a horn relay. This extend the life of the horn-push considerably.

good luck
 
If you really want to blast someone go to a boat center and get one of those signal horns, works off of some kind of pressurized can, you would have to come up with a solonoid to push the button down but man they would hear you a mile away and probably scare the crap out of people
 
Make sure you're wiring it right. I replaced my horns on my TR3 with a set from TRF. Hooked the black to the ground side and the red wire to the hot lead. Hit the button, and nothing. Got out my multimeter, checked that I had current in the circuit when the horn button was pressed, but realized the wiring color of the leads was for a negative ground car, not positive as mine is. Re-connected the wires from the horn to the loom so the black side was the hot lead, and the red side was the grounded. Worked fine after that.
 
checked the power to the horn and it is showing 11.56 v

did direct power to the horns no good and the batt. is strong

and checked for reverse polarity

checked all connections from the button (new), the spring thingie thru the wheel (new), contact plate (new), bridge thru the rubber linkage (new),

I have pulled the purple wire that comes out of the steering stalk and grounded it to ground.

odd thing is I do not drive the TR in the rain and hand wash

called Roadster and Dave is out until Monday (summer party I guess)

going to rain and get brutally humid and hot here this weekend so I am going to attempt the fix from Moss

not because they don't work but I need to know why






now it is a personal
 
:wall:

ok they came right apart easy

but as soon as I started disassembly got a wiff of that nasty

burnt elec. smell

upon inspection it appears that the winding has suffered a melt down

9204-9204-111032_48dsc00377_THUMB_1.jpg


here are a few piccs
9205-9205-111032_41dsc00378_THUMB_1.jpg
9205-9205-111032_41dsc00378_THUMB_1.jpg
 
Back
Top