-
Hey Guest!
British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!**Upgrade Now**
(PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Hey - did you know if you click on the title of a thread it will take you to the first unread post since you last visited that thread?
but were afraid to ask: 
STOP!! Never post your email address in open forums. Bots can "harvest" your email! If you must share your email use a Private Message or use the 
smilie in place of the real @
Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
TR2/3/3A Horn Wiring Insatall
- Thread starter karls59tr
- Start date
Share this page
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
Offline
I use thin steel "handy wire" (aka "baling wire") to pull them through. Also make sure the inside of the tube is clean and shiny. If it's rusty inside, you should probably just replace it, but I managed to clean mine up by forcing various things through it (bearing balls, abrasive cloth, scotch-brite).
I've also used "synthetic wax" wire pulling lubricant, which made the pull a lot easier but made the wires harder to get out the next time. I might try one of the water based ones (or even KY jelly) next time and see how that works out.
Oh yeah, I also do the initial pull in the shop, before installing the tube inside the column. That way, I can clamp the end of the baling wire in the bench vise and pull on the tube with one hand while I guide/stuff the wire in with the other. Once an inch or two of electrical wire protrudes, I can remove the baling wire, install the tube in the column, and finish by pulling directly on the wire.
I've also used "synthetic wax" wire pulling lubricant, which made the pull a lot easier but made the wires harder to get out the next time. I might try one of the water based ones (or even KY jelly) next time and see how that works out.
Oh yeah, I also do the initial pull in the shop, before installing the tube inside the column. That way, I can clamp the end of the baling wire in the bench vise and pull on the tube with one hand while I guide/stuff the wire in with the other. Once an inch or two of electrical wire protrudes, I can remove the baling wire, install the tube in the column, and finish by pulling directly on the wire.
TR3driver
Great Pumpkin - R.I.P
Offline
Right. The factory configuration has the thicker horn wire the shortest, to give a little extra room at the first bullet.
charleyf
Luke Skywalker
Offline
I have always had to remove the bullet connectors and then stagger the wires. I also have wrapped the wires into a tight bundle but I don't remember what I wrapped them with. You cannot push them through you need to pull them .
Charley