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I have a new wiring harness in my control head after cleaning and assembly.Turn signals and self cancel work.Horn button feels right but blows as soon as column harness is connected to horn wiring.Meter shows grounded regardless of button position.So diassassembly will probably show an obvious error but would appreciate any thoughts about what may be grounding horn before I take it apart.Thanks Tom
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TR2/3/3A horn button
- Thread starter TFB
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toysrrus
Yoda
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Hi Folks,
Since owning my `61TR3A; My "Turn Signals" have not been coming on. My "Horn" works fine.
The other day; I was parked & had the steering wheel turned counter clockwise about 45deg from center. Hit the horn button & nothing. Accidentally, I hit the lever for the turn signals & they started flashing!!
I brought the steering wheel back to its normal (Straight) position & the "Horn" works but "No Turn Signals".
What are some solutions here?? What do I need to do to get the "Horn Button / Trafficer" off; If I needed to??
Thanx in Advance,
Russ
Since owning my `61TR3A; My "Turn Signals" have not been coming on. My "Horn" works fine.
The other day; I was parked & had the steering wheel turned counter clockwise about 45deg from center. Hit the horn button & nothing. Accidentally, I hit the lever for the turn signals & they started flashing!!
I brought the steering wheel back to its normal (Straight) position & the "Horn" works but "No Turn Signals".
What are some solutions here?? What do I need to do to get the "Horn Button / Trafficer" off; If I needed to??
Thanx in Advance,
Russ
TexasKnucklehead
Jedi Knight
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Russ, the first thing you should do is pray that you don't need to remove the trafficator.
I hope you understand that the entire trafficator in the steering center is not supposed to turn with the steering wheel. The horn button and signal lever should always remain stationary, regardless of the position of the wheel. Once you understand that, you should know that the function of the horn and turn signal switches should be completely irrelevant of steering wheel position. So first you should correct the issue if the trafficator is moving with the steering wheel.
The trafficator must remain stationary for the mechanical self cancelling mechanism of the turn signals to function. It also must remain stationary to keep that bundle of wires from rotating inside the stator tube.
If I were you, I'd look at the wires that come out of the steering box (down the inside of the stator tube from the trafficator) and see if anything there shows signs of moving with the steering wheel. Look for loose bullets, damaged insulation or broken wires. You should be able to 'hot wire' the horn and blinkers from the wires there without removing the trafficator -to be sure the problem is with the trafficator. Be careful because the horn is not switched with the key and has it's own fuse, while the blinkers are not. Refer to the wiring diagram and you will see it is not very complicated. -There are 3 switches inside the trafficator (left/right/horn).
I hope you understand that the entire trafficator in the steering center is not supposed to turn with the steering wheel. The horn button and signal lever should always remain stationary, regardless of the position of the wheel. Once you understand that, you should know that the function of the horn and turn signal switches should be completely irrelevant of steering wheel position. So first you should correct the issue if the trafficator is moving with the steering wheel.
The trafficator must remain stationary for the mechanical self cancelling mechanism of the turn signals to function. It also must remain stationary to keep that bundle of wires from rotating inside the stator tube.
If I were you, I'd look at the wires that come out of the steering box (down the inside of the stator tube from the trafficator) and see if anything there shows signs of moving with the steering wheel. Look for loose bullets, damaged insulation or broken wires. You should be able to 'hot wire' the horn and blinkers from the wires there without removing the trafficator -to be sure the problem is with the trafficator. Be careful because the horn is not switched with the key and has it's own fuse, while the blinkers are not. Refer to the wiring diagram and you will see it is not very complicated. -There are 3 switches inside the trafficator (left/right/horn).
Kleykamp
Jedi Trainee
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Russ, The stator tube runs throught the steering column from the bottom of the steering box to the wheel. The wires run throught that tube to isolate them from twisting when the wheel is turned. It is slotted at the top and the shaft of the control head has notches that slide into the slot, holding the control head stationary. I would check 1) that the nut on the bottom of the steering box is tight. 2) that the control head shaft is "locked" into the stator tube. There are three grub screws aroung the steering wheel hub. ( three small holes). Loosen those and disconnect the bullet connections of the harness. You can pull the control head out to reposition it to line up the slot and notches. You don't want to pull the wiring harness all the way up into the stator tube unless you have to, but you may have to, to check the insulation on the wires. If the insulation is worn off from turning in the column, that could be where it is shorting out. It's a bit of a pain to get those wires back through the column. I taped the end together with one heavier guage wire then pulled them through from the bottom. easier with two people, to help keep the harness lined up at top.
Kleykamp
Jedi Trainee
Offline
Russ, You can't remove just the horn button. You have to remove the whole control head as outlined in my prior post. Once it is off there are 3 or 4 screws that go from the back of the control head into the front that hold the front face on. With the front face off you can see the horn contacts. When the face comes off, it is likely that some of the inner parts could fall out. Remove carefully. It is likely that either or both the grub screws in the steering wheel hub or the screws holding the face to the control head are rusted if it's an original head. Good luck.
Russ...
If your going to pull the control head apart, there is an excellent article that is referenced several places online. I found it very helpful when I refurbished mine. Try a google search on "Sidescreen Control Head-disassemble". Here's one link to the article as a DOC file.
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B2H2NJt34OffMUhOX1ZiVWdTbmM/edit?pli=1
One word of caution. If you decide to break the unit down all the way to the point that you are separating the two halves, make sure you do it very carefully so that all the little parts don't fall out. Take a close look (better yet, take a picture) at the orientation of the two long metal pieces that I believe are referred to as "hinged followers" in the article. The ends of these parts have a bevel to them. Note which way the bevel is orientated. If they don't go back in the right way you'll be pulling it apart again. Don't ask me how I know... <G>
Rick...
If your going to pull the control head apart, there is an excellent article that is referenced several places online. I found it very helpful when I refurbished mine. Try a google search on "Sidescreen Control Head-disassemble". Here's one link to the article as a DOC file.
https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B2H2NJt34OffMUhOX1ZiVWdTbmM/edit?pli=1
One word of caution. If you decide to break the unit down all the way to the point that you are separating the two halves, make sure you do it very carefully so that all the little parts don't fall out. Take a close look (better yet, take a picture) at the orientation of the two long metal pieces that I believe are referred to as "hinged followers" in the article. The ends of these parts have a bevel to them. Note which way the bevel is orientated. If they don't go back in the right way you'll be pulling it apart again. Don't ask me how I know... <G>
Rick...