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TR6 Hoping for advice on 1972 TR6

jjbunn

Jedi Knight
Offline
I've spent all my time over on the MG forum until now, but am selling my MBG GT, and hoping to replace it with a TR6 to restore.

I've looked at one today, in pretty shabby condition. It's a 1972, a runner, although the engine apparently "needs some work", as it idles poorly. I haven't yet listened to it, or driven it, as the mechanic wasn't there at the time (it's in a local shop that has a bunch old British cars for sale). We couldn't get the hood open to look at the engine.

However, I did take a lot of photos of the car. The dash looks in good nick, although there are a couple of things missing. The seats are apparently not original. The body panels appear to be alright: I didn't see any serious looking rust, plenty of surface spots, but I'm an amateur with these cars, and not sure of the best place to look closely. The underside looks clean enough. The soft top needs replacing, but it opens and closes easily.

Here are some photos. I'd be most grateful to hear warnings, evaluations, advice, or pointers to resources that would help me to decide if this car is a good project. Terse comments like "RUN AWAY!" are useful, too :smile:. My intention would be to spend a lot of time fixing it up, which is what I really enjoyed doing on the GT.

https://farm2.static.flickr.com/1085/1162556267_b8830ea32d_o.jpg

https://farm2.static.flickr.com/1342/1163413322_74e8635c86_o.jpg

https://farm2.static.flickr.com/1132/1162557349_400c0a2c35_o.jpg

https://farm2.static.flickr.com/1411/1162943109_a758fea5a8_o.jpg

https://farm2.static.flickr.com/1285/1163420318_9993097d9f_o.jpg

https://farm2.static.flickr.com/1182/1162576617_9b0b9eb1db_o.jpg

https://farm2.static.flickr.com/1316/1163427164_3253e5c5ff.jpg

https://farm2.static.flickr.com/1378/1163418072_183d20020c.jpg

https://farm2.static.flickr.com/1378/1163793414_583166ff21_o.jpg
 
This looks like every other TR6 from that vintage before a restoration. I say check it out completely (sans rust, etc.) and prepare for the worst. Typically a complete frame-off is in order. I don't know what he's asking. If you can aquire it for a good price, you should be able to turn it into a great looking classic. I'm in the middle of a complete frame-off with my '76 TR6. Feel free to contact me if you would like more detailed info of what to expect. Good luck.
 
BOXoROCKS said:
Julian,...don't now what he is asking,...don't care....run for your life. This guy has shyster tatooed on his butt.

I cannot confirm that, as I didn't ask him to drop his shorts /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif

What especially raises a warning flag for you?

Dan: email sent.
 
jjbunn said:
...a TR6 to restore...

You didn't ask for leads but here's one anyway:

https://adcache.collectorcartraderonline.com/10/8/0/89299780.htm

Was advertised last month, I now see the picture is gone. Appeared to be a very dusty recently painted TR6 sitting outside a shop. As I recall it was stripped of chrome etc looking like it got thru paint and no further.

I have not seen the car in person nor do I have any financial interest in this -- just passing it along inasmuch as an 'Arizona' can be a good basis for restoration (though as soon as they ship them in from the rust belt they declare them Arizona cars so beware).
 
Julian, not sure what you want to do or how deep your pockets are or how much expertise or technical skills you have. Classically, most Triumphs are more valuable than most MGs. Now, that is a very broad statement. Don't really know what your budget is or your level of expertise is but because you seem to have fallen for a Triumph, I cannot fault you there.
Just remember that engine work is cheap compared to body and frame work. Buy the best you can afford (body and frame) and go from there. Most people would do better by buying at a fire sale where someone else has done an admirable job of restoring a Triumph and needs to unload it. Buying a basket case and restoring it, even to driver status, can cost a fortune. I feel that the car you have pictured is worth at most $2,500.00, from what I see. It is not uncommon to see someone spend upwards of $20-30,000.00 restoring a nice TR6. Ask me (and many, many members of this forum) how I know.

I am not really fond of what I see in the photos. Unless it is really, really cheap. How about that gold TR4 in one of the pictures? See rust on the seams though.
 
TR6BILL said:
Julian, not sure what you want to do or how deep your pockets are or how much expertise or technical skills you have. Classically, most Triumphs are more valuable than most MGs. Now, that is a very broad statement. Don't really know what your budget is or your level of expertise is but because you seem to have fallen for a Triumph, I cannot fault you there.
Just remember that engine work is cheap compared to body and frame work. Buy the best you can afford (body and frame) and go from there. Most people would do better by buying at a fire sale where someone else has done an admirable job of restoring a Triumph and needs to unload it. Buying a basket case and restoring it, even to driver status, can cost a fortune. I feel that the car you have pictured is worth at most $2,500.00, from what I see. It is not uncommon to see someone spend upwards of $20-30,000.00 restoring a nice TR6. Ask me (and many, many members of this forum) how I know.

I am not really fond of what I see in the photos. Unless it is really, really cheap. How about that gold TR4 in one of the pictures? See rust on the seams though.

Hi Bill,

Many thanks for the comments. The TR4 you spotted is a disaster area. Here are a couple of photos of it:

https://farm2.static.flickr.com/1259/1162577149_d4112ad739_o.jpg

https://farm2.static.flickr.com/1182/1162573745_55b794a04d_o.jpg

I couldn't see one body panel that wasn't rusted through or damaged.

Coming back to the TR6: you're price estimate is very useful. I think I may be able to negotiate down to that level.

I've spent the last year restoring an MGB GT, mainly mechanicals and electricals, although some simple bodywork too. It was great fun, so I sort of relish new challenges. I'd much rather start with something cheap and in iffy condition than something expensive and with little work to do on it. On the other hand, I don't want to end up with something that has a critical problem: that's my main worry.

Are all the TR6 years pretty much the same? Is a '72 any less or more desirable than a later/earlier car?
 
That car looks like a hole which needs a ton of time, labor and money poured into it. If you have all three, fine, but if not get away quickly.

JMHO since you asked.
 
Looks as if it needs everything gone over.
Interior 700-1000
top 500-600
paint 2000-5000
tires 300-500
chrome 1500-2500
probably suspention 300-1000
carb rebuild 400
motor ????????????
frame ????????????
misc. ????????????
I think IF runs and no motor rebuild, and frame is good it is worth 1200-2000 which also assumes you have the funds available for the above.Nothing wrong with a project if you have it in you.
 
Julian
The TR6 looks very much like mine did when I bought it five years and lots of money ago. On a positive note the '72 year is one of the more desireable to have. Bumpers are uncluttered, dual exhaust manifold, vacuum retard only, etc.
If you can purchase it for less than $3,000 and have the ability, inclination, and money I say go for it. Expect to lay out at least 4-5,000 for paint, 1,000 for upholstery(you do the labor), 2 to 3,000 for engine rebuild, 700 for hydraulics, 1500 for clutch/tranny work. Set aside another 5,000 or unknowns and you should have a presentable driver.If you cannot do the work yourself walk away and buy the best TR6 you can afford that has been someone elses money pit. The most dreaded thing you can encounter is RUST.
Just my 2 cents
Mike Crane '71 CC62976L(O)
 
Thanks Paul and roofman.

Time and labor is no problem for me: that's what I'm after, and expecting. Money is more problematic!

Looking at roofman's list: the paint I would do myself. I just did the MGB GT with Rustoleum gloss white and a roller. Don't laugh!! It looks really good from 20ft! I'm not after a concours vehicle. The interior looks like a money pit - I worry that some missing pieces are Unobtainium e.g. the air blower nozzles. Also the seats are not original - maybe they are OK - they look alright. The tires looked pretty decent to me. The wheels appear to be original. Also the chrome seemed that it would probably be nice with a bit of cleaning: I didn't see any pitting. The top certainly needs replacing. I need to drive it and hear the engine, check out the transmission etc.. I have no idea how to check the frame: what am I looking for?

Again, thanks for the advice/input.

Julian
roofman said:
Looks as if it needs everything gone over.
Interior 700-1000
top 500-600
paint 2000-5000
tires 300-500
chrome 1500-2500
probably suspention 300-1000
carb rebuild 400
motor ????????????
frame ????????????
misc. ????????????
I think IF runs and no motor rebuild, and frame is good it is worth 1200-2000 which also assumes you have the funds available for the above.Nothing wrong with a project if you have it in you.
 
Frame rust through, collision damage, check the trailing arms, floor boards, look for excessive leaks in engine, trans, and rear end etc. You could put in Miata seats cheaper than tracking down the originals etc. Interior pieces come up on ebay all the time. This can all work if you can get it at the right price.
 
Hi JJ,
The car in your pictures is a '73 not a '72. The gauges are different between those years.
Probably the most critical area on any of the IRS TRs is the trailing arm frame section. If that box frame is rusted through, run away unless you intend on doing a frame off and don't mind repairing it.
 
RomanH said:
Hi JJ,
The car in your pictures is a '73 not a '72. The gauges are different between those years.
Probably the most critical area on any of the IRS TRs is the trailing arm frame section. If that box frame is rusted through, run away unless you intend on doing a frame off and don't mind repairing it.

I noticed that some pics of TR6 dashboards have an ammeter rather than a voltmeter. Is that one of the changes between 72/73?

Showing my ignorance: is it possible to inspect the trailing arm frame section without getting the car on a lift?
 
Be a little wary Julian - the car has major items found on '73/'74 vice a '72. The dash is '73 & up (later style gauges, two warning lights in the middle, headlight switch in dash, etc.) The doors have the top finger-pulls used through the '73 model year. The front bumper has the holes for the '74 and up rubber overriders, but the rear bumper is for a '73. There are other cues found only on '73 & up. The original color looks like "Mallard", which was only used 73/74. I say it's a '73.

Looks like a good starting for a full up restoration, but I wonder why they say it's a '72. Maybe they mistook the manufacturer's plate if it was a '73 model actually made late in 1972. (Brit car place should know this though) Maybe the car came with no title and got a substitute? Maybe the car was hit in the front and got a '74 bumper?

I agree with TR6BILL - check the bodywork and get it cheap.

Jeff
74 TR6
 
That car looks like somebody had two or more cars and put them together as one. The front bumper is a late model. Who knows where the seats came from.
Only if you can get it really cheap, or if he pays you to take it off his hands, would I buy it.
It could be a diamond in the rough. Can't tell from photos. If you know somebody who knows these cars, take him/her along to look at it.
You definitely want to open the hood to see if it has a TR6 engine, etc. Take a refrigerator magnet to look for putty.
A bug bomb might be a good idea before sitting in those seats.
 
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