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Hibernation over...I'm back...Pinion Seal question

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Willie_P

Willie_P

Jedi Hopeful
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Hi all, non-heated garage, winter over in the Northeast and restoration of 62 tr4 resumes.

A quick search brought up many posts on pinion seals.

My question revolves around the seal itself. i bought the Moss replacement pinion seal for tr4 and after removal what I presume to be the original one, they are vastly different (as you may know).

The Moss replacement is kind of "hollow" whereas the original has layers of packing, rubber a spring and a metal backing plate.

Anything special that I should do in offering-up the NEW/REplacement seal to the car? I read all the posts on hylomar and prep of the diff housing, etc.

My question is relative to the inner diameter/rubber seal part of the seal. should I liberally PACK it with bearing grease or anything or just a light coating of grease on the ID?

thanks and look forward to many posts as I resume this resto.
best - wes
 
No need to pack it, just a generous smear on the lip will do fine. The grease is only to ensure that it is lubricated until the oil from the inside of the diff works it's way into the seal area.

Make sure you polish the surface of the flange until there are no marks from the old seal. If you can't rub out the old mark, consider installing a Speedi-sleeve. Also coat the polished surface with grease before you install it.

Don't forget, the nut needs to be torqued to 85-100 ftlb. I found it easiest to make a simple tool to hold the flange from turning, which can be seen here holding a Stag output flange

DSCF0002_crop.jpg


(the tool is about 30" long, which doesn't show in the photo)
 
HEy TR3 driver..great advice and thanks!

My diff is "in situ" but with no axles on the car (and no body either)- so it spun! however, the tool I improvised from sheet stock was the same as yours - only the difference was that my flat stock bar (about 2 ft long) was levered against the underside of the frame rail.

I did not gouge the casing on the removal and this was likely the first time the seal was ever out, so it's in perfect shape...very smooth and shiny, but i'll do a minor finger polish with some emory cloth or what have you.

thanks again!
 
Just to be clear, I was talking about polishing the rotating surface that the seal runs against, on the input flange. Unless there is a problem, I wouldn't mess with the bore in the differential housing, except maybe wipe it with a cloth dampened with solvent.
 
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