-
Hey Guest!
British Car Forum has been supporting enthusiasts for over 25 years by providing a great place to share our love for British cars. You can support our efforts by upgrading your membership for less than the dues of most car clubs. There are some perks with a member upgrade!**Upgrade Now**
(PS: Upgraded members don't see this banner, nor will you see the Google ads that appear on the site.)
Hey - did you know if you click on the title of a thread it will take you to the first unread post since you last visited that thread?
but were afraid to ask: 
STOP!! Never post your email address in open forums. Bots can "harvest" your email! If you must share your email use a Private Message or use the 
smilie in place of the real @
Pretty Please - add it to our Events forum(s) and add to the calendar! >> 
HELP! Newbie needs to know how to remove HUBS.
- Thread starter crya
- Start date
Share this page
Offline
I suggest that you stop & get a shop manual. You will certainly need it in tthe future. Somthing similar to this one listed below.
https://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29490
D
https://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=29490
D
John Loftus
Darth Vader
Offline
The sequence for the front hub is:
1. Remove the grease cap which is down inside the hub opening. This requires a factory tool or you can make your own. There is a 5/16-24 threaded stud coming out the grease cup. I took a 3/4" x 3 1/4" long bolt and drilled/tapped about 1 1/4" deep into the Hex end of the bolt. That gets threaded onto the stud and then use a large washer or plate (to bridge the hub opening) and a nut to pull the grease cap.
2. The hub bearings and shims are held in place by a castellated nut that was under the grease cap. The nut is locked in place with a cotter pin. Shine some light into the hub .. use a screw driver/etc. to straighten the cotter pin and then push the pin out using the holes in the side of the hub and a punch tool.
3. Remove the castellated nut and washer underneath and now you should be able to pull the hub straight off (since you have a BJ8 you also need to unbolt the disk brake calipers first.)
Putting everything back together is not the reverse of the above. There are critical shim adjustments to get the correct zero play in the bearing stack. As Dave said, you really should get the manual but hopefully this will help you get started.
The rear hubs are easier .. remove phillips head screws to take off the brake drum .. unbolt the hubs.
Cheers,
John
1. Remove the grease cap which is down inside the hub opening. This requires a factory tool or you can make your own. There is a 5/16-24 threaded stud coming out the grease cup. I took a 3/4" x 3 1/4" long bolt and drilled/tapped about 1 1/4" deep into the Hex end of the bolt. That gets threaded onto the stud and then use a large washer or plate (to bridge the hub opening) and a nut to pull the grease cap.
2. The hub bearings and shims are held in place by a castellated nut that was under the grease cap. The nut is locked in place with a cotter pin. Shine some light into the hub .. use a screw driver/etc. to straighten the cotter pin and then push the pin out using the holes in the side of the hub and a punch tool.
3. Remove the castellated nut and washer underneath and now you should be able to pull the hub straight off (since you have a BJ8 you also need to unbolt the disk brake calipers first.)
Putting everything back together is not the reverse of the above. There are critical shim adjustments to get the correct zero play in the bearing stack. As Dave said, you really should get the manual but hopefully this will help you get started.
The rear hubs are easier .. remove phillips head screws to take off the brake drum .. unbolt the hubs.
Cheers,
John