Help me analyze a potential Big Healey purchase

[TulsaFred]

I'm looking at a car locally, being sold by a widow who knows nothing about it, just that it is a 1961 Austin Healey 3000.
Lost the key, doesn't know if it will run. Some rust spots "here and there". Master cylinder has been removed reportedly.

So it sounds like a non running restoration project but possibly in decent original condition.

I may go have a look.

Any thoughts on what a good price would be?
What should I check when I inspect it?
What is the easiest way to try to start it without a key?

Thanks for any help,
Fred

 

[Brinkerhoff]

Fred, It sounds like something you should be able to get a good buy on. Just pop the ign. switch out of the dash and jump across the terminals. There is a batt. master sw. in the trunk that will turn all batt. power on to the car. Jumping the ign. sw. will turn on the fuel pump , coil , and power the starter button. These are pretty common models ( I have two) and desirable,more so if its a two seat body. I always give the body a good look and see if the car is worth spending the $5,000 it will take to get it back on the road ! ( It ain't hard to do). A lot of these cars are full of bondo and poor repairs that are frightfully expensive to fix. If its cherry with some first time rust peeking through 8- 12 grand wouldn't be too much and you can never pay too much for a really good one. Kevin

 

[TulsaFred]

Thanks Kevin.
I've researched a little and find that 61 was a transition year from MkI to MkII. I assume the MkII is more desirable, and my understanding is that this would be easiest to tell a MkII by the fact it has 3 SU carbs (rather than 2).
So the 2 seat is more desirable?
Anything else I should look for?
What about frame rot, where should I check?

F

 

[richberman]

Rockers, outriggers, floor panels and dog legs (behind the doors and in front of rear wheels on rear fenders) are the prime rust spots.

 

[Randy Forbes]

You don't even have to take the ignition switch out__just bridge across the two (2) fuse circuits in the fuseblock (under the hood). This can be done by removing one (1) of the fuses and placing it in between the clips (really secure, eh?).

At that point, the push button for the starter should be energized, as well as the fuel pump and ignition...

... however, I don't recommend that you even attempt to start it without doing a barrage of other tests and checks first. Just common sense, since it's been dormant for ??how?? long?

I wish there was an opportunity like that around here... :wink:

 

[TulsaFred]

@rich: I know there is some rust, but hopefully superficial. I assume the hardest to repair would be the outriggers?

@randy: so there are only 2 fuses? and these can be bridge with say alligator clips with a short length of wire? Jump both of the circuits? If you have a pic that would be great. I think it would be helpful to turn it over and see if it fires just for a second then shut it down. That will tell me a lot.

thanks guys
F

 

[Genos2]

Don't even need a clip, I used to just pull a fuse & push it back in between the holder on the pwr in side for 2 fuses. Should have generator light & starter button will work. Good luck!!

 

[BigGreen]

... however, I don't recommend that you even attempt to start it without doing a barrage of other tests and checks first. ...

Chances of rust in the engine, fuel gone bad, no oil (presure)
In the end new fluids are a must anyway ...

Frame and panels with little rust would make me smile i a situation like yours. Succes !

Hans

 

[Healey_Z]

Not sure how long or what condition it has been stored in, but I wouldn't try cranking a motor before spraying some penetrating oil in the cylinders, putting it in gear and gently rocking it back and forth, replace the oil.....much more to lose, than gain trying to rush it.

I always ask the question of how much do you want.

You should look at every Healey currently for sale and recently sold, so you know the market price. Say you get an average price of a good driver at $25K. Then start subtracting, rust repair, paint, interior,tires, rim truing, electrical, mechanical....and a grand for unknown. I think you will find that you will need a buy price well under $10k to not be seriously upside down. $5k for a complete car that is not a rust bucket would be a steal.

Good luck and post some pics.

 

[Johnny]

Fred, all MKII's do not have 3 carbs. Look for roll up windows which is a dead giveaway for a MKII. Any seller should be able to find the VIN number which tells a lot. BTW, make sure the car has a clear title which also should have the VIN number.

 

[TulsaFred]

Most of the AH 3000s I see online have asking prices of 50-75 in restored or very good condition. Not sure about sales prices, but I suspect 40-45K for a car like this would sell fairly easily.
Basket case restoration cars are few and far between, I saw one for 10 K at a dealer, in pretty rough shape with moderate rust.

Healey Z mentioned 25K for a driver quality.

So seems like a solid rust free (or minimal) and complete restoration candidate should be around 10-15K.

A year ago I considered at a GMB BJ8 in Amarillo that looked great and was priced at 45K. I had a an inspection/appraisal that rated it a number 3 car with a few issues, in the end I didn't buy it, and it was for sale for quite a while. I assume it eventually sold, but don't know the price.

These are the figures I am using to judge value. Please comment if you feel differently.

thanks
Fred

 

[TulsaFred]

BTW, Nada guides lists the following value estimates for a 61 BT7

MK I:
Low retail $16,200
Avg retail $32,700
Hi retail $62,600

MK II:
Low retail $18,000
Avg retail $37,100
Hi retail $64,500

just for thought

Fred