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Help BN4 stops Running After about 10-15 miles

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RichsBN4

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The car starts and runs strong, then after about 15 miles it begins to cough, then in less than 2 minutes it stops running. It is like it runs out of gas. The car runs normally again after a few minutes.
I have a clear filter just before the carbs, when the car stops the filter only has about a quarter inch of fuel in it and the pump is not clicking. I also have a facet pump and it will not fill the filter bowl either.
- I have removed the gas cap and it still does not pump (click).
- I have removed the fuel line from the carb and the pump pumps fuel strongly into a pail.
- I have checked the screens in both carbs and fuel pump….clear.
- I have pulled the top off the float bowls and the floats are not cracked and float just fine.
- I used compressed air to blow out the line between the carbs…clear.

I sure could use some ideas on what it might be.

Thanks, Rich I WAS CHASING THE WRONG PROBLEM. IT WAS THE COIL. THANKS GUYS
 
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Hi Rich, Maybe it is not fuel related. Even tho your symptoms seem to indicate that it is not getting fuel I believe there are some explanations to the symtoms you have related. I too have noticed that at times my fuel filter just before the carbs is not full even while the engine is running great. I was quite surprised by this when I first put the Healey back on the road last year but it is a fact. The filter is not always full. Also, as you probably know, if your fuel system is fully charged, meaning the carbs bowls are full and the float needle valves are closed then the fuel pump will not tick. Or it may tick very very mildly to the point that you can't detect it. Since you are saying that you get good fuel flow when you remove the fuel line and direct it to a pail, then I believe you are getting the fuel and you should look elsewhere. Dave.
 
Check to see if the gas cap vent is plugged, you may be getting a vacuum in the tank - it takes a while to build a vacuum if it's not venting.
 
Similar sounding issue that I had with a customers MGTD, would run great, with no issues but after several miles it would miss fire a few times and then cut out.

Starting up and running fine again with out doing anything other than waiting for the coil to cool down several minutes later.

To test this bolted my test coil in place, and when the situation happened again on the test run as expected, I switched from the original coil to the secondary coil as quick as I could and it fired up straight away.
 
Maybe try this.... I had the same or similar issues on our BN4 and the last thing I tried to correct is was to remove the fuel filter in the engine bay and install one in the back after the pump. The plastic filter has air in it and the heat transfers right through the plastic body of the filter. The air expands when heated and you get an immediate vapor lock condition. It worked for us. Maybe try it for a couple runs without the filter just to see if it fixes it before trying to find a place for the new filter.
Jim
 
I think the first thing is to figure out if it's fuel or electrical. Drive the car until it stops; then pull of one of the float bowl covers. If the float bowl is full, it's probably the coil or condenser. If the float bowl is empty, you've probably got some sort of vapor lock problem.
 
Thanks a bunch! I replaced the Shiny two year old Sports Coil with the 58 year old coil and Wow. I just got back from a 25 mile run and not one hiccup.
 
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