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Hello, new guy here with some questions.

MG-Gator

Freshman Member
Offline
Hello all,

I'm a noob with some important questions. My girlfriend's uncle has a 1974 MGB roadster that has been sitting in her garage since 1981. My goal is to get it to at least be able to be driven on the street. As far as I know, the car stopped running one day and her uncle just decided to let it go I guess. The car has 89000 on the odometer I believe and is completely intact. The body is in good shape and I think this could be a great project for me in the future. I've always wanted to work on cars but never really had the courage until now. I'm somewhat mechanically inclined and I figured I'd have to start somewhere. This seems to be the perfect opportunity since the car would be practically given to me if I could get it working.

I was wondering if any of you have any links or information of your own on how to revive a car that has not run for this long. Where would I start? I'm willing to do it the right way but need a starting point.
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All you need to know !

https://www.theautoist.com/awakening_a_sleeping_b.htm

Oh, check to see if it has overdrive. If you look under the middle of the car on the bottom of the transmission and see a black plate that says LayLock De Normanville you got one and it significantly increases the value of the car and makes it much more enjoyable for cruising above 50 mph.

Good luck from an owner of two '74 MGBs with overdrive !

[ 04-20-2004: Message edited by: David Kiehna ]</p>
 
Good find, 'Gator, and good luck! It was probably something simple that stopped the car to begin with, so you probably won't have much trouble getting it on the road again. If you are even "somewhat" mechanically inclined, you're going to have fun, and will do really well with the car, as they are very simple to work on, and there is a TON of good advice available online.

And, since you've got a car that is already intact, you should have too much to do but the fun stuff! (OK, you will need to do some basics to get it back on the road, specifically rehabbing the brake system, but won't take much.)
 
I agree with what has been said above. As with any British car of the period, rust should be your major concern, and if the car in question is relatively rust-free, you should be in good shape. Catastrophic mechanical failures are almost unheard of on these cars, as the oily bits are well-proven and reliable, almost bullet-proof by reputation. The electrical systems, however, are another story. Silly things go wrong with them, and if a car quits, it is usually something minor but elusive that causes it. The biggest cause of this is lack of maintenance, so taking things apart and cleaning contacts should be a given. Trouble-shoot the thing thoroughly and you should have it up and running in no time. Good luck!
 
Gator,
As in "Florida" or does it have another source?

I do NOT consider myself a mechanic (at least a good one) though my family thinks I am given what I attempt....which is everything. If you have any aptitude for it and interest in it..an MGB is an absolutely great way to get further into it given the great sources of parts and incredible BBS around from which you can get specific diagnosis help and better directions and tips for doing stuff than any of the books do...though you gotta have the books so you at least know the basics when you start asking questions. I have successfully completed stuff in the last 2 years (brakes, wheel bearing, heater renewal, fuel pump, fuel sending unit, wiring improvement, carbs, dizzy,e tc.) that I NEVER would have attempted without BBS support. Biggest thing is to fix it completely when you take a system apart so you never have to go back and can look forward. Fix the major mechanical stuff early or at least check it out (ignition, fuel, brakes, etc. etc. ) Sometimes it's better to buy new than re-build (Master Cylinders, Lever Type Shocks, etc.) so just ask and ask.

Welcome to the zoo and good luck with your great project. If the body is good you can do the mechanical much cheaper than vice versa. Probably cost me $3-4K for not following that advice about rust.
 
Thanks for the information guys. I can no longer sleep at night thinking of the day I can pull it out of the garage. The car is currently in Pittsburgh so I have about a week or so until final exams are over to get started.

The Gator is as in Florida Gators, University of Florida (Currently finishing up my Junior year).
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The first thing I would do is drain the fluids - oil, replace the oil filter and fill wiht fresh oil and water (you don't have to use antifreeze for the initial test to see if the engine can be made to run). Borrow a fresh battery and hook it up. Take the plugs out and see if the engine will turn over and generates some oil pressure when cranking on the starter (the idea of taking the plugs out is to (1) make sure a cylinder hasn't filled with water and (2) to get some oil circulating). Assuming it cranks, I would next drain all the old gas out. and add about 1 gallon of fresh gas to the tank. I would take off the fuel line near the carb and crank until you get a flow of fresh fuel. Allow the bowls to fill with gas (either crank on it, if it is has a mechanical pump, or leave the ignition on if it has an electric pump, until it stops ticking). Take an air cleaner off, and look in the carb to see if you are getting fuel in the venturi. If you have a spray of fuel, you have ne of the components you need to amke the engine run. Next, take one of the spark plugs, snap an ignition lead on it, and rest the threaded collar against a good ground, holding it with an insulated tool. You should see a spark across the electrodes while someone cranks the engine (If you have not chosen a good ground, and/or ignored the warning regarding using an insulated tool the "What the *****!!!!" jolt in your arm will obviate the need to observe a spark across the electrodes). Finally, invest in (or borrow) a compression gauge, Screw it in each of the spark plug holes, in succession. Have somone depress the gas fully while cranking the car. the compression should come up to 120-150 psi on each of the cyliners. If you have fuel spray, a spark and compression, when you put the plugs back in (and connect the high tension leads to them) the engine should start.
 
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