TR2/3/3A heck is a TR3A front fender...

[CraigLandrum]

There's just so much to love about putting the front fenders back on a TR3A, it's hard to know where to start. I simply cannot say enough about whoever designed the method of attachment. Forcing us to use 10 gazillion bolts and caged nuts was diabolical enough, but the fact that you have to get them started and then tighten them down while contorting in 5 (five!!!) different directions is bad enough. Direction 1 (from the top): the top row running along the inside and attaching the fender to the inner fender; Direction 2 (from the bottom): finishing the row that was started on top but now is finished from underneath the car after removing the wheel; Direction 3 (from the outside facing in): the bolts along the bottom that attach the bottom edge to the frame; Direction 4 (from the rear): the bolts that attach the back of the fender to the front of the door opening; Direction 5 (from the inside facing out): the bolts that attach the nose to the fenders. Oh, and last but certainly not the least - that fershlugginer single bolt that requires you to remove your carefully installed and upholstered knee kick panels from inside the cockpit to uncover the hole that is too small for your fingers so you can struggle for an hour attempting to start and tighten that last bolt. And it's an important bolt since it closes the gap at the rear of the fender and helps hold down the end of the trim.

We finally gave up trying to start that last bolt, took the whole fender off, started that one bolt, then cut a small slot upwards to the hole it was supposed to go through. We then twisted and tugged and used a small screwdriver to get the head of that bolt and it accompanying washer up that slot in position so it could then be tightened from the inside.

It's just kinda hard to describe finally getting all those bolts installed and tightened up.

...and then realizing that most of the ones along the top will need to be loosened back up in order to properly fit the nose section onto the car.

Genius. Sheer genius. I'm shocked that the factory could turn out more that one or two these puppies a week

 

[Russ Austin]

Oh, and last but certainly not the least - that fershlugginer single bolt that requires you to remove your carefully installed and upholstered knee kick panels from inside the cockpit to uncover the hole that is too small for your fingers so you can struggle for an hour attempting to start and tighten that last bolt. And it's an important bolt since it closes the gap at the rear of the fender and helps hold down the end of the trim.

Oh I see you met that little hole on the inside, I can tell that mine is loose. The beading pops up there sometimes, I thought about enlarging that hole so I could get to it.

Good Luck Craig

 

[TR3driver]

Now you know why those bolts had points on them!

Sounds like it's too late for you, but a 7/16" socket with a magnetic insert works a treat for doing that bolt through the kick panel. In combination with an original pointed bolt and a short extension, you just load the bolt into the socket and then poke it through the hole. Wiggle it around a bit then start turning. Both of mine went right in, after I cut a hole in the carpet that the DPO glued to that area. And I'm just going to leave the hole, as it's too far under the dash for anyone to notice, IMO.

But of course my car won't be a show car, so I don't really care if someone does notice.

When I was maybe 15, my Dad warned me about bolting sheet metal together : Never tighten anything, until ALL the bolts are started. As I recall I was frustrated by a Chevy oil pan at the time, but it's good advice for body panels as well.

 

[NickMorgan]

At least you know they won't fall off!!! :laugh:

 

[Twosheds]

I gotta agree with The Randall about the pointy bolts. They are easier to start!

 

[Don Elliott]

Let me explain how easily I did that back in 1990.

For those two bolts high up the inside sidewall, I took a 2" long hex head bolt and MIG welded it to the bolt that was intended for securing the fender. Now the new hex head is in your fingers about an inch or so this side of the sidewall face. Give it a turn or two, then use your 7/16" socket on it and the first bolt (with the point on the end) will drive home easily and it will be tight. When you are finished, the head of the "new" welded-on hex bolt will be just inside the hole and you can re-seal your carpet up there nicely. It's also easier to take apart next time.

 

[M_Pied_Lourd]

Thanks for the tip Don. Will do exactly that when the time comes.

Cheers,
M. Pied Lourd