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Heavy Clutch Pedal

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Bruno_69z28

Senior Member
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I’ve replaced the clutch in my TR4 (has a TR4A set-up). The parts were purchased aprox. six years ago and consisted of pressure plate, clutch disk, pilot bearing, t/o bearing, sleeve, fork pin, slave (7/8”), M/C (Girling ¾). The system has been bled completely and the line is in good condition. The slave is installed in the correct position and I’ve tried using the middle and lower hole on the cross shaft. Using dot 5 oil.
It’s been so long since I pulled the car apart that I don’t remember the size of the old M/C and slave. Has anyone got any ideas for a softer pedal pressure?

Thanks for your time
Bill
 
Hi Bill,
It's the nature of the beast. You did not mention the brand pressure plate used. There were some minor differances in pedal pressure between them. I'm not sure if the Sachs pressure plate would fit the TR4 though.
Using the lower hole might make the pedal pressure a bit easier but might affect clutch engaugement. The original design leaves alot to be desired. A new hydraulic set up will be easier but it's pricey & requiers pulling it all apart again.

Get a gym membership , it's easier
 
At the port of entry, every car went through a wash to remove the cosmoline before being sent to dealers. Every TR6, I think, that came out of there, left a foot or so of rubber on the asphalt. It was because the "clutch pedal is so heavy my foot slipped".
 
I had a similar problem with a Spitfire MkIV. The master and slave cylinders were mis-matched. The clutch felt like a block of wood. It would work but only with great effort. I replaced the master with the correct one for my car and this solved the problem.
 
Hay Bruno I once had that problem on a tr3 when I put a 7/8 slave cylinder on instead of the 1 inch that is used on tr3/early tr4 that bad boy got so hard a cat could not scratch it. I went back and rebuilt my 1 inch slave and the pedal was much much easier to push down.
Sp53
 
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