Heater motor is back

[Brosky]

I just picked up my heater motor from Yankee Auto Electrics in Pawtucket. Brad took it all apart, cleaned the commutator and brushes (which were hardly worn), cleaned and lubed the bearings and tested the armature to make sure it would last. Everything is fine, the fan now spins so easily, I can't believe that I thought it was fine before I took it in. My new unit from Moss didn't spin this easily. It runs very quietly on both speeds and now I'm just about ready to clean up and paint the case.

I took some pictures of the Smith labels on the case and want to make some replacements before I strip them off.

 

[Olafthor]

Paul, Just out of curiosity, what did Yankee charge for the heater work?

Did you ever determine how to create a 2 speed switch if the resistor didn't work?

 

[Brosky]

Dan,

Brad at Yankee charged me $55.00 for parts and labor. When he takes something electrical apart, it's fully tested and rebuilt as needed. They're an old fashioned family owned and operated business.

You can buy a new motor for about $120, or maybe less from the Big Three. I took a gamble on this one, because it turned rather easily, but not as smoothly as when Brad got finished with it.

My original motor that I replaced in the fall when the transmission was out was seized up solid. Brad took it apart while I waited and told me it would be better to replace it with a new unit from the B3. It was cooked and the bearings were shot as well.

I dropped the fan switch project after I found that this resistor was fine. However, that is still on my mind, because I gave Brad an ebay "like new" switch that was supposed to work fine and the ohm meter readings are all over the board. I may take a switch from Pep Boys or Auto Zone and wire it to the motor via the pos/neg connections and see what happens. I'll bypass the resistor to try it out.

The trick will be to find one with a shaft that will allow it to fit the TR6 dash properly, but I'm sure that with a bit of searching effort, I can make it happen.

BTW, did you call him last week? He said someone from CA called but the shipping would end up killing the deal.

 

[Olafthor]

Paul, Yes I talked to Brad last week. I can't find anyone on the west coast to rebuild this motor.

I was estimating that it would cost at least $20 to send it back and forth. However, if my motor doesn't need that much work, then and additional $50-70 would still make more sense than spending $120+

Brad would also be able to determine if the resistor was working properly? If so, then I'll call him again tomorrow.

Thanks for the info.

 

[Brosky]

Yes, I believe that he can test the resistor.

 

[TR674]

Paul
luckily my motor looked like new, very little wear so a grease and clean did the job. It runns well and that fan pushes a lot of air on high speed setting.
I sprayed my motor and stand in an epoxy enamel. Have you had the box re finished?
Craig

 

[Brosky]

Craig,

I'm still working on the box. I had hoped to put it all back together this weekend, but other projects got in the way and now I have that darn flu bug that's going around.

With the amount of people that I see on a weekly basis, it's a wonder that it took this long to get me.

So, no sanding or painting until next weekend.

Paul

 

[TR674]

Paul
what condition are your water hoses in from heater to firewall? I've taken mine out and chucked them as they were not the correct replacement hoses and were forced into place, bending the metal pipes at the firewall.
Would the Moss replacement hoses be of a good quality or are there similar 1/4 inch pre-bent hoses? Asian cars all run 3/16 inch heater hoses.
I should get this sorted soon as winter is around the corner.........
Regards
Craig

 

[Brosky]

Craig,

Mine were replaced when the box was dropped out last fall. I did not want any issues with coolant on my new carpeting. I think that I got mine from TRF. While you are at it, get the twin pipe fitting and gasket that goes through the firewall to the hoses on the other side and replace them.

Pinholes happen!

Paul

 

[Brosky]

I'm getting closer on the painting of the box. Today was fix dumb PO pry bar marks and bending of case. I straightened and realigned everything, then I thought that I had better take some pics of the required reassembly parts and update my site. So here we are as of today, including instructions for those who have never done one of these showing what they will need to reseal it properly.

https://www.74tr6.com/heater.htm

Cheers!!!!

 

[DNK]

Paul, When you cut the top TRF suppled seal make sure you cut it a little long. Mine has shrunk almost 3/4 of an inch. Now it has not been installed in the car in the year+ that I cut it. That might effect the shrinkage.

 

[Brosky]

Hmmmmm. Sounds just like the old plastic chrome trim around the windshield trick. Better leave it long because it will shrink over time and the cover clip won't hide the gap.

In this case the air will leak out of the top and out. Thanks for the tip. I'll add it to my site when I do the final assembly of the case. Naturally, I bought an extra seal, figuring that I would screw one up in the gluing process.

 

[TR674]

Paul
I had new pipes welded to the original bracket. As good as new, the old pipes were bent beyond salvage. My box was bent too, PO did it trying to get a radio in.......
Regards
Craig

 

[Brosky]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:] My box was bent too, PO did it trying to get a radio in....... [/QUOTE]

Good thing that he didn't try putting carpeting in or he might have pushed out the firewall. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/laugh.gif

At least I know that my original is OK. I'm just adding this to my pile of "ready to go spares" that are set to install at a moments notice.