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TR6 Heater Control Valve

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edkap2002

edkap2002

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Hello, It is now time for me to replace all hoses and the heater control valve....all, if not most, have been in place for 47 years.
Looks like all the hose clamps will have to be cut off with a Dremel tool as the rust has taken over the screw heads. I put an adjustable wrench on the stem fitting on the heater control valve and it did not budge! I'm afraid to put too much pressure on it for fear of breaking/cracking it or the block. I really felt solid. Any advise???...thank you as always....Ed
 
I would probably start by dosing the joint with PB Blaster every few days for a couple of weeks. Then at some point, I'd probably go ahead and break it off. Then either drill & retap the street ell, or buy another one. The ell should come out of the head more easily (tho ISTR you have to remove the rocker cover).

When you reassemble, use some teflon pipe dope on the threads, so they will come apart easily next time.
 
PS, you won't find them at the usual parts stores, but places like McMaster Carr do carry hose clamps that are entirely stainless steel rather than just the band. I got annoyed at the screws rusting, so I've been slowly converting.
Eg, https://www.mcmaster.com/#54155k21/=1e4h7pw
 
In addition to the PB Blaster, I'm a big fan of shocking threads with (slight) impact to get them to cooperate. Sneaking up on maximum torque will break threaded connections and tools much more easily than applying a "snap" load to the fitting, so long as you're not applying 1/2" pneumatic impact wrench level forces to it. A quick tug on the wrench, or smacking the wrench with a hammer is about as high as I would go, force wise.

One thing I did to get some extremely stubborn head studs out of a TR3 engine was build a little dam out of modeling clay around the stud. FILLED that thing with PB Blaster and let it sit. Tapped the top of the stud with a hammer to shock it every day or so. After less than a week the thing came right out.
 
TR3driver said:
I would probably start by dosing the joint with PB Blaster every few days for a couple of weeks. Then at some point, I'd probably go ahead and break it off. Then either drill & retap the street ell, or buy another one. The ell should come out of the head more easily (tho ISTR you have to remove the rocker cover).

When you reassemble, use some teflon pipe dope on the threads, so they will come apart easily next time.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advise.....I am going to look for PB Blaster tomorrow...stay tuned...hopefully I wont end up crying out loud
 
After all the lube, be sure your spanner fits snugly to the heater valve and that you're rotating with force square to the fitting. I've had that scare, but never a problem. On occasion I've had that the little pipe fitting come out with the valve. In fact, I think I preferred it that way once.
 
I little heat from a propane torch is one of my last resorts before I break something off. Also, don't just try to turn it c'clockwise. Go clockwise first, then c'clockwise. One direction then the other. Baby steps, is how I do it.
 
Tr6easyrider said:
Ed, you might want to replace the original valve with this.
https://www.amazon.com/Four-Seasons...&ie=UTF8&qid=1534103552&sr=1-1&keywords=74648
https://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/HeaterValve.htm

No need for hose adapter from 1/2" to 5/8" just rub some oil inside the hose and on the barb of the valve.
Click to expand...
I have this heater valve on my 6 and it is so much better than the original. Also, I removed the detent ball from the control cable. Now I have infinite control of the valve.
 
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