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Healey Trunk Handle Removal

Gibber

Freshman Member
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I am getting my 62 BT7 ready for new metal and painting. I have run into a problem trying to remove the trunk handle. The Phillip screws came out with no issues, but the slotted screw that threads into the square shaft that runs from the lock assembly is not moving. I have tried spraying WD 40, but it is difficult to get to the threads. My last resort is to drill it out. I believe I read somewhere that this screw is hard to replace. Moss shows the screw and handle as one unit. Any tips appreciated.
 
I am getting my 62 BT7 ready for new metal and painting. I have run into a problem trying to remove the trunk handle. The Phillip screws came out with no issues, but the slotted screw that threads into the square shaft that runs from the lock assembly is not moving. I have tried spraying WD 40 but it is difficult to get to the threads. My last resort is to drill it out. I believe I read somewhere that this screw is hard to replace. Moss shows the screw and handle as one unit. Any tips appreciated.
Good morning. Did you try heat? If not try using a propane plumbing torch to heat it for a few minutes, 2-3 or so for
a small part like that. If that doesn't work first try then alternate back and forth between heating and soaking with Blaster, or WD40, Blaster is better. Saving these nuts and screws take a lot of patience. It could take a few days. Good luck.
 
Actual penetrating oil works better than WD40; I've had good results with Kroil, others with PB Blaster and aircraft mechanics swear by Mouse Milk. Some brew their own, with ATF and acetone.

I've had some positive results with an impact screwdriver, though I don't know if it's feasible here (caution required). Screwdrivers with concave tips--as with this impact driver--engage much better than 'old school' with sloped tips. A soldering gun or pencil might be a good way to apply localized heat.

 
Good morning. Did you try heat? If not try using a propane plumbing torch to heat it for a few minutes, 2-3 or so for
a small part like that. If that doesn't work first try then alternate back and forth between heating and soaking with Blaster, or WD40, Blaster is better. Saving these nuts and screws take a lot of patience. It could take a few days. Good luck.
Thanks for the response Ray, I will give the heat a try.
 
Actual penetrating oil works better than WD40; I've had good results with Kroil, others with PB Blaster and aircraft mechanics swear by Mouse Milk. Some brew their own, with ATF and acetone.

I've had some positive results with an impact screwdriver, though I don't know if it's feasible here (caution required). Screwdrivers with concave tips--as with this impact driver--engage much better than 'old school' with sloped tips. A soldering gun or pencil might be a good way to apply localized heat.

So there really is a "Mouse Milk." I've heard the term used in various contexts over the years, but always thought it was imaginary.
 
A quick look at a factory parts manual didn't find the screw. I'll guess that it's a Phillips pan head screw - 2BA threads. A screw with 10-32 threads will work.
 
Thanks everyone for your comments. I heated the screw with my torch and kept adding WD 40 and used an impact electric screw driver with lots of back and forth. It finally started to move a bit at a time and finally came out. Thanks again for your suggestions.
 
So there really is a "Mouse Milk." I've heard the term used in various contexts over the years, but always thought it was imaginary.

 
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