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Headlights

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]That would be a bulb syringe.[/QUOTE]

It is...when I get back to a catalog, I'll get the parts number....there was a time when you could just stop by the local drug store & get one of those little throwaway syringes....but, in these days of controlled items....
 
I have found it best to a quart or two of all headlight fluids on hand, especially the summer and winter blends. The summer blend is formulated to compensate for the lack of cooling provided by the winter temperatures. When your headlamp lenses get too hot, they will take on a purple tint over time....you see this in prewar cars many times, theu didn't have these fluids back then. The winter blends contain an small amount of propylene glycol to keep th e lenses from cracking from the sub-zero temps that occur at speeds above 20 mph when the ambient air temperatures drop below 37 degrees F.

Now, in reference to the dimmer switch idea, you MIGHT try find a brighter switch replacement. These were commonly found in the Swedish, Dutch and Finnish cars of the era. They work on the same concept as a dimmer switch but instead of taking the bright headlight and reducing it, they took the less bright headlight and made it brighter. HOWEVER, you will need to upgrade your generator/alternator and put some kind of cooling fan over the switch as they DID tend to get very warm and sometimes melt or set fire to the surrounding carpet.

And on a final note, I HIGHLY recommend going to your local paint store and buy some Garage Floor Checkered Paint for all of your garages. It comes in Black/White, Blue/White, Red/White and other combinations. Goes on REALY easy and makes for an AMAZING display area for your LBC!

Hope this helps!!
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]I have found it best to a quart or two of all headlight fluids on hand, especially the summer and winter blends. The summer blend is formulated to compensate for the lack of cooling provided by the winter temperatures. When your headlamp lenses get too hot, they will take on a purple tint over time.... [/QUOTE]

Paul, I thought that when you used the wrong blend you could tell by the moisture inside the lens, especially in hotter months?
 
Be certain to avoid headlamp fluid from London...it makes the lenses fog.
 
Tony wrote:

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Paul, I thought that when you used the wrong blend you could tell by the moisture inside the lens, especially in hotter months? [/QUOTE]

Rick wrote:

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]Be certain to avoid headlamp fluid from London...it makes the lenses fog. [/QUOTE]

RICK!! Thanks, that answers my question...now I know the problem...I've been using some OE Lucas fluid I bought years ago!!
 
Sure am pleased I came in on this thread.... wearin' Wellies.

GAH! Can't leave you fellas alone for more'n a few hours. Who's gonna clean up this MESS?!?! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/jester.gif

FWIW: the connectors at the front should be three (blue/red) leads, two from the headlamp assembly and the "hot" one from the high/low switch. It's usually the switch malfunctioning.
 
All fluids aside.

It does sound like the switch to me as well, but ain't the low beams blue and white and the highs blue and red. Doc hit me on the head if I am wrong.

Most failures that I have found with this system have either been either the switches or the front harness connections.

Pat
 
I can't remember... is there a headlight relay in the MG? That's usually something to check too.
 
Guys, Guys, Guys.... /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/rolleyes.gif

I haven't seen anyone, unless I missed it, suggest simply buying a new headlight bulb and trying it out.... 8 bucks and you will need it eventually anyway if that isn't the problem....

Then you should replace the headlight fluid... /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/devilgrin.gif
 
Bob_Bobrowski said:
I tested the both bulbs with a 12v power supply, the high and lows are good on each. I checked for power at the plug with a volt meter, and nothing on the low beam lead(and they weren't low on fluid, either). I'll see if I can get to the dimmer switch.

Ron, Please see above.

Pat
 
White tracer is high beams. I'd bet a CAB on it. As for relays, I don't know what year the car is but I'd say unless it's a '78 or younger there wouldn't be one unless fitted later.

It's weird but like brown wires are "hot" leads not "grounds" on LBC's. Not exactly intuitive to a yank's way of thinkin'. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/jester.gif
 
GB1,

I stand, or sit as the case may be, corrreccctteedd.... /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/jester.gif
 
'sokay Ron. We know you're from California. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/devilgrin.gif /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/jester.gif
 
PAt,

Narlie dude... hang loose... mahalo...

And other such California and Hawaiian expressions... Group hug... /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/grouphug.gif
 
Okay, One outta two ain't bad.

Doc, me still scratching me head on that, pretty sure it is the other way /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/bow.gif hehehe

/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/cheers.gif Ron

Pat
 
Doc you are right and I am wrong go figure

UR = low beams Blue Red

UW = High beams Blue white

I owe ya one! /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/bow.gif
 
BTDT a ~few~ times. You can pony up if we ever face-to-face. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/savewave.gif
 
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