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headlight operation switches functions

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jvandyke

jvandyke

Luke Skywalker
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I inherited a customized dash/electrics on my '63 Midget.
Working through sorting it all out.
Just wondering how it is "supposed" to work.
Is there on online version of an "owner's manual" out here?
I've managed to get most things working but no headlights/running lights/panel lights.
Currently there is a three position plunger style switch, I assume it is supposed to be all the way in "all off", first notch =running lights, all out=running/panel/headlights.
This plunger has a solid blue wire and a blue/red, and a smaller blue (PO added as it is a different gage).
I'm in the process of going through schematics and tracing wires just wondering how it is all supposed to work, not that I feel compelled to put it back to stock, just thought it'd help me figure it all out.
 
Something for an MK1 Midget would be nice. Maybe similar to your '62 Sprite?
 
Got the running lights working, light switch was bad, took apart cleaned and that's good, blue/red has 12v, (unswitched) to light control switch, solid dark blue (PO added I think) runs off this switch to running lights, solid blue (OEM) also off switch but nothing happens, traced it to dimmer floor switch but could not get that off. Called it a night. If I'm reading the diagram correctly, this should feed 12v to the dimmer, which should then continue to headlights. Is the floor dimmer supposed to click or otherwise make noise when pressed? Mine moves but is silent. Also found disconnected wire at one headlight, hard to tell what color. Pretty ratty looking wiring all around. In the parts box I got from the PO is a new wiring harness. Save that for winter I think.
 
jvandyke said:
Something for an MK1 Midget would be nice. Maybe similar to your '62 Sprite?
Click to expand...

Jeff, MkII Sprites and MkI Midgets are identical except for some minor trim differences. If you want, I can scan a MkI diagram for you.
Yes, the dimmer switch should click when actuated.
They are repairable, with a bit of ingenuity.
Jeff
 
I have wiring diagrams from Haynes, Clymer, bunch of manuals but I'd sorta like to know how the controls were set up in the cockpit. Light switch was a toggle? Three position? Off/running lights/headlight running light I assume.
Not a switched circuit either. There's lots of that in my Midget, almost everything is hot all the time and from what I can tell, NOTHING is fused. There's three greens heading into the fuse block, two red coming out but none are in a closed circuit (they've all been bypassed apparently).
I have a lot to learn.
I'm guessing there was an issue with the headlight circuit at some point. Unfused. If I'm reading it right, blue wire to dipswitch and then blue/red blue/white out to headlamps.
Wow. Same with my old Opel GT, additional electrical mods were heavily recommended there, especially with its rotating headlights, the wire insulation would break down, unfused high amp circuit=fire.
One set of contact points in my current light switch was burned, therefore something somewhere at some point went bad. (suspect is the dipswitch aka: dimmer)
Looks like it would be prudent to go through this circuit carefully and add in some safe guards, fuses and relays perhaps.
 
Dip switch should click when depressed.
 
Alright, thanks. That's my next target then. Someone painted the poor thing liberally, screw heads buried in paint, wires all coated nicely. Will be a huge chore just to get it off!

How hard would it be to get another?

Answering my own question.
VB seems to have for $50! I'll certainly make a concerted effort to resurrect mine before I shell out that!
 
Should clean up just fine, like all Lucas stuff they are tough.

OH me what I said. But really I like Lucus switches for tough and resoreable. They clean up well and are usually good for another 30 years.
 
I got it off by taking the bracket off first, then the nuts and screws holding the switch on, then started taking the switch apart. It was about 1/3rd full of rust scale and who knows what, managed to get it torn down to just the plunger end (I ground the cap off) and whatever gizmo is hiding in there. I have abandoned hope of making it functional again, it has turned into an autopsy/exploratory. Here's pictures of the guts, for posterity.
Pictures
I bought a foot dimmer on ebay for $5, any reason why any old switch won't suffice?
 
I verified it was the dip switch by jumping two of the incoming wires (colors unknown due to paint) with a blade style fuse, the operation of the light switch worked as expected then, one notch out= running lights, two out=add headlights, separate toggle under dash put on instrument lights (most of them anyway!).
Most things now sorted.
Tried to adjust parking brake but the adjuster nut didn't want to move, sprayed liberally with PB Blaster and will try again in a day or two.
Knocked off the rear wheels for the first time ever (for me). How do you know how much to knock 'em back tight again?
Adjusted rear brake shoes at least.
 
Should have a tab lock under the nut so just good and tight.
 
jlaird said:
Should have a tab lock under the nut so just good and tight.
Click to expand...

tab lock?
 
Looks like a washer with a teat in the middle hole that fits in the whole in the side of the threaded part of the axel. Nut is put on, tightened, then the side of the washer is bent up to prevent the nut from turning unless the tab is bent down for the next removal.

Moss #265-560
 
I think he meant knock off wheels that he took off, not the wheel hub... .. ?

also.. when i got my car the positions of the switch were,

1) off
2) Head Lights ONLY
3) Head and Tail lights...


somebody musta had it set up for "stealth" mode!
 
Hehe, I had one like that a 1955 Buick Century when they first came out. Was a very important option back in the day.
 
Yes, I took off the wheels, not the hubs. Just wondering how hard to knock 'em back on. Kinda hard to torque correctly with a copper hammer!
At least everything looked pretty solid down there. No surprises. It was undercoated and quite a bit of that is falling off, probably should consider hitting it with something preventative.
 
Oh, knock off wheel hubs. Good and tight but don't force em.
 
Dipswitch or dimmer switch from a 60-66 Comet (just picked one randomly off ebay that looked okay) works fine.
$8 total beats $50, no?
dipswitch.jpg


Worked fine for the test. Car apart now but seemed to switch between dim and bright just fine.
 
Boy, no telling what else is out there.
 
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