Headlamp/relay Question

[62BT7]

First off, I finally fired up my Healey after a dormant period of 1 yr+. Burned out fuel pump, but also some family issues that sapped time and energy (my father's cancer). Energy was devoted where it should be placed, but I'm now back and very keen to finish out my Healey project. There's a local "all comers" meet in which I plan to register for this September. Enough background, the query: I want to <span style="font-style: italic">slightly</span> upgrade the stock headlamps on my '62 BT-7. No real interest in anything high wattage/bright, just looking for a slight uptick in brightness. I've replaced the wiring harness, the relay box (to a solid state Moss unit,right of the radiator, etc). What I have now for proposed replacements are just a set of plug-in Silvania Silverstar units (model number H6024ST). They are priced a notch more than cheap closed beams, but not the pricier Silverstar units. My guess is that these would not max out the stock electrical system. I'd really prefer not to hassle with installing new relays, etc. BCF: Consensus: Safe or not? Many thanks,
-Tom

 

[SideShifter Tri-Carb]

I am a fanatic about my lights in all my cars and my Healey in particular. It originally came with Lucas "European" lights, although I never saw them when the car landed in my hands. The US DOT probably had them revoked when the ship arrived from Germany. Since the sealed beams that were in there were terribly dim, I opted for some NOS PL700s. What a shocking difference and my high beams are only 60 watts. No relay was installed, although that doesn't mean one is needed. But by virtue that the wattages were the same, why should one be added if no problems previously existed. There are cheaper alternatives such as H4s that will fit, but not original Lucas if that is important. Just make sure you don't put in 100 watts, or else you would most likely need the relay.

 

[Keoke]

Well you are talking about 130 watts load using the lamps you are talking about.Standard lighting is not the best as originally wired.

..Consequently, adding a relay which is relatively simple and much cheaper also relieves the stress on the light switch as well and may brighten up the standard head lights enough for you.--Fwiw--Keoke

 

[62BT7]

So I noticed on the side of the box "65/55 Watts." I assume that's the 130 watts you reference, Keoke? I was hoping for a simple swap, but I suppose nothing is ever easy with a Healey, at least not mine.
-Tom

 

[Cottontop]

HERE is a wiring diagram of how to install relays into the headlight circuit.

This particular diagram is for a Classic Mustang, so the connector on the right is not applicable to a Healey, BUT all of the electrical connections are the same.

I also have fast-on terminal Ford 30 Amp relays that I'll let you have for $3 each. The green 1N4001 diodes are not necessary.

Tim = tim@ntahc.org

 

[Johnny]

Not that big of a hassle, I just installed mine with 2 relays. The kit I ordered altogether only cost about $25 which included two relays, (one for high beam other for low beam). I included the prewired holders for the relays which made it real simple. The holders also came with another set of contacts pre-wired for additional lighting if needed. Here's the article I used as a reference.

 

[RAC68]

I agree with all suggesting the installation of relays.

First, power to the headlights passes from the regulator through the light switch and on through the dip switch. These switches are at least 40 years old in design and were not meant to carry more than the common light amperage of that day. Second, has anyone looked at the gauge of wire used in the original light circuits? If not, I would suggest you do before you increase the wattage of your lights. Add to the above, consider the power demands of driving lights (if installed) and the fact that these are not fused circuits, and you may be placing yourself into a position of gaining extra lumens from the erupting flames of an electrical fire.

The graphic above presents the installation of relays and add-on circuits. Please not that this approach retains all of the original wiring (for easy reversal) with the passenger side headlight circuit (high/low beams) chosen for convenience to switch the relays. Circuits created to power the relays and carry relay power to the headlights have been upgraded in wire gauge to handle a substantial increase in amperage. Fuse number and location were included to suggest rather than recommend. Last, for convenience and subtlety, the relays were mounted on the inside of the access panel in the passenger wheel well.

Again, I would strongly suggest you install 2 relays (3 with driving lights) and upgrade the wiring to your headlight plugs at least 16-gauge. I would also suggest that fuses be added to the circuits for additional protection. These changes will allow you to be in a position to take advantage of any of the latest lighting sources available while reducing the amperage passing through your original circuits.

Ray (64BJ8P1)