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Head Studs

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jcatnite

jcatnite

Jedi Knight
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Need to pull the head studs out of the block before I carry it to the machine shop. Double nutting them doesn't seem to be the trick to pulling them. Any ideas from the expert. I don't want to bugger them up. Guess the next option would be to buy a stud puller of the proper thread pitch.
JC
 
I don't know, as that's the trick I used when replacing the head gasket (and replacing the studs as well). Someone must've cranked them into the block at some point ...
 
Yeah, I figured they either bottomed them out or coated the threads with permatex or something. They are in there pretty tight.
JC
 
Put nut on the top flush with the tip and give them a good wack on the top with a hammer. You can also heat them with a propane torch. One or both should get it.
 
I am guessing that you are planning on reusing the studs since you don’t want to bugger them up taking them out. Unless they are ARP fasteners or an equivalent you really should replace them. I know there is going to be debate about this but stock head bolts / studs aren’t meant to be reused, although I’ll admit I’ve done it. I’ll also admit that I had to replace a head gasket with about 2 hrs run time on it because of a failed reused stud. If you are confident that someone didn’t over torque them in the past then I’d say they are OK to reuse, but if there is a chance they have been torqued to their yield point then replace them. This is one of the “might as well” items that really is cheap insurance.
 
Again the old standby, pipe wrench with a comealong.
 
I was able to get the 4 large ones out no problem with vice grips, but the 5 smaller ones are giving me flack as well. I think it would be easier to get the crank out if I could flip the motor onto its top, but I can't damage those bolts.
 
Time for your very own engine stand. two 2x6 about two feet long, nail together to make a T. Head bolts will fit nicely on each side of upright part of T and the other peice holds the engine.

Gota think outside the Box if you a shade tree guy.
 
Provided the stud hasn't been over torqued, it is perfectly ok to reuse them. You must resist the idea that a bit more torque is better. By using the proper torque you are merely putting a desired amount of tension on the fastener. Over-torqueing it will stretch it. This removes it's ability to hold any tension. You can usually see the results of this stretch by looking at the stud at the area of the start of the threads(the weakest point) on the shank. If stretched it will appear skinnier(kinda like a piece of stretched gum)then get fat where the nut was.
By the way torque should be 35 to 40lbs/ft and no more! My 14 to 1 racecar has 40 lbs/ft.(stock studs) I have no head gasket concerns.
Arp studs require more torque to acheive proper tension. The excess torque tends to cause the head to have a kinda saddle shape. I see a lot of guys at the track with head gasket concerns. They are using arp stuff and high torque reading trying to fix the problem. More is not good.
 
Agreed. And another tool to consider is a "sprag". Find a tool truck and follow it, ask the guy about stud removers. I like the dedicated size ones for head bolts instead of the "universal fit" ones: more equalised load on the studs.

https://www.asttool.com/html/cars/general/general1.html

HTH!
 
Have you tried using two vice grips 180 degrees apart at the same time. Be careful you only get one shot before they spin.
 
Thanks for the advice everyone. I'll look for a sprag Doc. I don't know the history of the studs and plan on replacing them anyway. I am a bit of a packrat though and didn't want to mess the studs up incase I ever needed one in a pinch...lol or it might turn out that they turn up to be useful somewhere else. If it comes down to it I'll pipe wrench them out but didn't really want to unless that was the only option. Sometimes, I'm my own worst enemy...lol
JC
 
Hey JC,

Just went through this myself, and I used a variety of techinques to get that last MF off. Firstly, lots and lots of PBblaster of course. Secondly, I triple nutted. Thirdly, I put a 2x4 on top of the stud and gave it a few might whacks from a hammer. Finally, I used a giant pair of channel locks to wiggle the stud back and forth.

Good luck!
 
Look to that AST Tool link, the things are invaluable for workin' on LBC's and suchlike... I *swear* to y'all. VERY good tool investment, just get the one(s) you'll need. Vise-Grip and pipewrench scars are stress risers and weaken the integrity of the studs, the "swarf" left behind needs dressing up... just two good reasons to find a proper tool for the job. The studs in these engines are reuseable unless torqued beyond proper settings, rust pitted or compromised on removal.
 
Doc,
I've got a couple of stud extractors at the house, just not one that will fit on such small studs. I've never heard them called a sprag before but now that I know what you are talking about I am hot on the trail. Only problem is I can't find my pitch gage to figure out exactly which ones I need. I'll look for it again this evening. To be honest, if double nutting them won't work, I didn't think that vise grips or even pipe wrench would either. Haven't tried the flame wrench yet...might be the next choice.
JC
 
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