TR2/3/3A Head stuck on block

[jfarris]

First - the search function hated all the terms I tried to use.
I'm down to removing the head from the block with the engine still in the car (see why below). Everything is loose from the head, one stud came out with the nut. All remaining studs soaked with PB Blaster. Rocker arm assembly is off. I put the plugs back in and turned the motor over. Some water spewed out the intake side between the block and head. I can slightly rock the head back and forth with a wooden hammer handle in the intake ports. But, it aint moving. SUGGESTIONS?

Prime symptom was the #2 spark plug fouling after 20-30 miles of driving, any conditions. Car actually ran pretty good. Compressions were 140, 134, 130, and 137. I finally got around to a leak down check - bad news.
#1 - 34% rings
#2 - 87% rings
#3 - 26% rings and intake valve
#4 - 42% rings and both valves
No wonder it was fouling the #2 plug. I had hoped to get by with a hone and ring job, not looking so good.
Thanks, let's get that head off!

 

[Deleted member 8987]

Hmm. You tried the crank with plugs and no rockers. Water out the intake is not good.
If one stud came out.....I know when I did my Jag, I pulled as many as I could with double nuts. Got all but two, and it then lifted right off.
Got enough thread showing to double nut?
I can't remember ever having that problem pulling down any four cylinder British inline, but if you can move the head, you're getting there. PB Blaster is good...ATF and Acetone is even better.
Do you gave an engine hoist or chain fall / cable ratchet and a solid garage beam? Chain up to one end inlet and other end exhaust stud and lift enough to see the nose come up a bit, and work it from there.

 

[Marvin Gruber]

Double nut the studs and remove them. Most four cyl heads come off pretty easy but some can be a pain. Remove one side first and then try to lift off.
Marv

 

[Geo Hahn]

I have used the 'rope trick' on occasion. Basically you feed a length of rope into a cylinder (say 2 or 3) when the pistons is just coming up on the compression stroke. Turn the engine until the piston is pressing against the wad of rope. You then bump the starter to nudge the head.

Someone experienced damage (broken land on a Spitfire as I recall) but it has always worked for me w/o issue.

Use at your own risk, YMMV, etc.

 

[DavidApp]

It may be easier to get the engine out.

I had to fight the head almost all the way off. None of the studs would come out. I had soaked the head for for days but it still took wooden wedges under the front and back of the head to get it moving.

David

 

[charleyf]

I have used a 1-2 pound hammer to tap on the head to get any small gap between the block and head. Then use a screwdriver and pry bar. One of the bigger problems comes from not being able to pull the head up EVENLY. If you get a gap on one side work to get a matching gap on the opposite side. The same goes for front to rear of the head. If it does not come up evenly it wedges itself in place.
Charley

 

[sp53]

What Marv said; try and remove as any easy head bolts with a double nut as possible. Get a picture of the head bolt length because some of the deep long ones make me nervous and could be a real pain. PLUS when you reinstall the head bolts read up on THAT because torqueing the stud and torqueing the head nut become compounded and will/can crack the head !!!!

 

[Lukens]

With all the do re mi your about to spend, I'd include a couple of hundred bucks for a stud wrench and a new set of ARP head bolts.

 

[jfarris]

Finally got the head off. I managed to get all the studs out except two and then manhandled it off. The idea to use small wooden wedges (shims for door and window install) was a good idea as I could move it slightly and this got it started equally on all sides. Once it was loose, it came right off the two studs. TOC, the water was coming out by the head gasket. The block still had water in it despite opening the radiator and block drains. The block drain was completely clogged.
Pictures below, the number 2 piston and head area didn't look the worst, but there is a definite ridge in the cylinder at about where the oil ring lives at TDC. The severity of the problem, 87% leakdown, and the condition of the water jacket have me thinking a more extensive overhaul.

Thanks for all the ideas and help. I know there is at least one current sale on piston & liner sets. I also have a question about removing the radiator and installing a yellow fan with the front apron in place. I'll put those questions in another thread.
You folks are GREAT!