Head Re-Torque

[BobMack]

Does anyone know where I can find explicit instructions for the re-torque of a Healey 3000 head?

I'm familiar with the rocker shaft removal and all that. It's the process of loosening and re-tightening the head nuts I'm getting a multitude of opinions on. Some say one at time (loosen quarter turn then re-tighten), some say loosen all in reverse sequence then torque in three passes, increasing foot pounds at each pass, etc. I have a shop manual, but I don't see re-torque, just the initial assembly.

I've also read about addressing the load, vibration and temperature distribution the manifolds create on the left side of the block with
a different process. I know lots of owners have experienced oil seepage on the right side and this has become a suspect cause.

Anyone?

 

[Michael Oritt]

Hi Bob--

Though I have never had to "retorque"the DW AL head in my Healey I have always been told to not loosen the head nuts but rather simply to apply clockwise force up to the specified torque value in the proper order. The fact that there may be no movement should be fine unless you are dealing with a leak in which case there is probably some underlying issue such as a bad or badly installed head gasket or warped head which requires more than a retorque.

 

[red57]

I know a lot of folks don't believe in retorquing, but I do (at least for our iron heads).

Back in the '60s when I took vocational mechanics class, we were taught to retorque using the same sequence/order the manufacturer called out for installing a new gasket. Since aluminum heads were quite rare then, our class focused on iron heads. Retorque with the engine cool. Do them one at a time - do not loosen all at once. Back off each nut a bit to break any bond established in the stud/nut threads and then tighten to proper torque.

The reason for loosening first is so you can pull smoothly to the proper torque with minimal friction interference to get a uniform stretch on all studs.

I have used this procedure on all of the motors I've worked on for 50+ years and never had any problems.

 

[BobMack]

Hi Bob--

Though I have never had to "retorque"the DW AL head in my Healey I have always been told to not loosen the head nuts but rather simply to apply clockwise force up to the specified torque value in the proper order. The fact that there may be no movement should be fine unless you are dealing with a leak in which case there is probably some underlying issue such as a bad or badly installed head gasket or warped head which requires more than a retorque.

Thank you

 

[BobMack]

I know a lot of folks don't believe in retorquing, but I do (at least for our iron heads).

Back in the '60s when I took vocational mechanics class, we were taught to retorque using the same sequence/order the manufacturer called out for installing a new gasket. Since aluminum heads were quite rare then, our class focused on iron heads. Retorque with the engine cool. Do them one at a time - do not loosen all at once. Back off each nut a bit to break any bond established in the stud/nut threads and then tighten to proper torque.

The reason for loosening first is so you can pull smoothly to the proper torque with minimal friction interference to get a uniform stretch on all studs.

I have used this procedure on all of the motors I've worked on for 50+ years and never had any problems.

Thank you

 

[LarryK]

On any head removal on older cars, I retorque at 500 miles and again at 1000 miles.

 

[BoyRacer]

Red57 has described the proper procedure.

 

[BobMack]

Thank you

 

[BobMack]

On any head removal on older cars, I retorque at 500 miles and again at 1000 miles.

Thank you