Have Mercy! Canister oil filter

[CuriousGeorge]

What's the deal with this monstrosity? How do you get this gigantic can out from where it is caged? And can I still find replacement filters? Oy!

 

[NickMorgan]

Place a container under the car to catch the oil, empty the sump, make sure the container is now under the canister, unscrew the long bolt that runs down the middle of the canister. Just before the bolt comes to the end of its thread you will probably be able to turn the canister with the bolt. Catch it before it falls and trying to hold it upright it will fit up between the inner wing and the engine.
Make sure you fish the old rubber seal out of the canister mounting.
You should be able to get the element from any TR supplier. In the UK it is still possible to get it from some local motor factors as it was common to other cars such as the Mini automatic.
Don't forget to roll up your sleeves!!!

 

[2wrench]

Latex gloves a cool idea...

You might want to order yourself a spin-on oil filter adapter and save yourself the grief the next time.

With the stock job, it's just a messy job.

 

[pa297pass]

I second the spin on oil filter reccomendation.

I only made one attempt at changing the oil with the original filter. If you tighten that center bolt up too much when installing, the rubber gasket will slip out of position and you'll have an impressive oil leak. After putting several quarts of oil on the driveway after my first attempt, I put the spin on adapter on and it has been fine for 18 years.

I think the original filter design also lets the oil drain out of the filter when the engine is off. This is bad for the engine when it is restarted.

Good luck.

Matt

 

[poolboy]

If you are talking about actually getting the can out of the vicinity of the engine for cleaning or whatever on a TR6, I had to loosen the lower steering column. After that it dawned on me that the clutch slave cylinder would have been easier to remove. Live and learn.
Anyway, I went with the conversion from BPNW and NAPA Gold 1516 filters.
I have a couple of horror stories about hidden O-rings in the cannister filters of 2 different Jag's. Those memories made the decision to convert an easy one.

 

[Tinster]

I must pay $85 to have my oil changed due to the "difficuly, mess factor". And I supply the new filter elements.

I'd buy the conversion adapter but I heard too many
horror stories about them

d

 

[tdskip]

I'd buy the conversion adapter but I heard too many
horror stories about them

d

What horror stories? Other than sometime being a pain to fit they are <span style="font-weight: bold">soooo</span> much better than original design.

 

[poolboy]

85 buck per oil change is a horror story in itself. The new improved adaptors that BPNW now sell are OK. Of course there is always the human factor to consider when making the conversion. Some folks could mess up this relativly simple procedure.

 

[Andrew Mace]

...I went with the conversion from BPNW and NAPA Gold 1516 filters....

The spin-on conversion is arguably much better and easier to deal with in almost every way. But I would note that NAPA should also have (often in stock) replacement elements for the cannister in their NAPA Gold line.

 

[Tinster]

85 buck per oil change is a horror story in itself. The new improved adaptors that BPNW now sell are OK. Of course there is always the human factor to consider when making the conversion. Some folks could mess up this relativly simple procedure.

BPNW sells cool things but they must think Puerto Rico is a city on
Mars given their shipping rates here. BPNW is A non-starter.

I have read here on this forum about the low quality control, ill fit
and sometimes impossible installations of the spin-ons..

d

 

[DougF]

Should you decide to stay with the cannister filter, it can be difficult to install if you don't seat the cannister by hand to the new rubber o-ring and hold it in position while you tighten the bolt.
Otherwise, you are guaranteed to have a mess.
With screw-on filters, it is very unwise, but can be easy to walk away without first testing for leaks because they seal so well. With cannister filters, it is crucial that you test run the engine. Otherwise, it could be a very expensive mistake.

 

[poolboy]

Otherwise, it could be a very expensive mistake.

O, Brother, you can say that again. In my youth, in an effort to hurry up and pick up a girl friend, loosing my oil on a highway, cost me a crankshaft for an XK-150. On the plus side, with the help of a mentor, I learned how to rebuild a dual overhead cam engine.

 

[poolboy]

85 buck per oil change is a horror story in itself. The new improved adaptors that BPNW now sell are OK. Of course there is always the human factor to consider when making the conversion. Some folks could mess up this relativly simple procedure.

BPNW sells cool things but they must think Puerto Rico is a city on
Mars given their shipping rates here. BPNW is A non-starter.

I have read here on this forum about the low quality control, ill fit
and sometimes impossible installations of the spin-ons..

d

Dale, I've heard that before, and I mentioned BPNW for 2 reasons. One. they are a sponsor and two, they were the first supplier that I was aware of that actually advertised that they handled the newly improved "MOCAL" conversion.
From what I see these days all the commonly used suppliers of parts for our cars now have them..
On 7/15/07, I paid 63.99 for the part and 14.21 for shipping. Total of 78.20 USD.
Ask for the "Mocal" part.

 

[CinneaghTR]

I have the original canister on the 4A and after dealing with that I swore I would install a spin-on the next time around.

Who makes the spin-on conversion that BPNW sells? Is it Mocal?

 

[tdskip]

The last spin on kit I received from BPNW was Mocal. I'd double check before ordering, but they are good folks up there.

 

[Tinster]

<span style="color: #990000">For the fun of it, I checked again to see if they
had modified their profittering on shipping costs.

This is right off their order form. I guess I live on Mars.</span>

$36 to ship a condenser can? Phil sent me one for $1.34

 

[mrv8q]

I'm with Tom; just installed the BPNW/Mocal unit on my TR6 last week. Strangely, it had a Moss number; Mocal was cast on the side of the unit. The filter they send along with the unit is too wide. I <span style="font-style: italic">think</span> the correct one is Napa 1516; I've posted that number elsewhere. The adaptor is made nicely; I found it helped to use a tap and die to clean out the threads on both ends, car and adaptor. I'll eventually get one for my '3.

 

[poolboy]

<span style="color: #990000">For the fun of it, I checked again to see if they
had modified their profittering on shipping costs.

This is right off their order form. I guess I live on Mars.</span>

$36 to ship a condenser can? Phil sent me one for $1.34

EARTH TO MARS, EARTH TO MARS, why don't you just move back to the Continent, Dale ? Preferably where there is a coven of TR6 owners.

 

[Tinster]

EARTH TO MARS, EARTH TO MARS, why don't you just move back to the Continent, Dale ? Preferably where there is a coven of TR6 owners.

<span style="color: #660000">Poolboy, you're making a joke, yes???

I have 12 months a year of my two favorite hobbies and both
only ten minutes from home......and you suggest I give these
up and move back to blizzards, floods, ground fires, polluted air,
scorching hot summers, droughts, crazy nutso politicians and the IRS??

Nah! I stick with what I got for hobbies and the BCFers always
help me out and I host them as good friends when they are on-island.

I've a good life.

I enjoy my hobbies:

1. Fishing for tarpon and snook
2. Drinking CABs and watching the beach babes.
(The Mrs lets me watch but not touch!!)
3. Dithering with my TR6 and meeting BCFers.

d</span> :thumbsup:

 

[RonMacPherson]

Okay Cuz,

Three things(If I can remember them all before I quit this post).
1. Have you talked to the autoist, Tony, about getting the stuff shipped to you? Hopefully his shipping costs are less. And this might be an opportunity for Tony to take on the BPNW line as a dealer.

2. Did you get the NGK spark plug design, construction and etc. that I sent you? If not search for spark plug design and NGK should pop up. They break down spark plug design and construction that is easily understood.

3. Have you measured vacuum at your tubing to the distributor? From what I read it said that you are obtaining NO vacuum there.
If not get out the Bentley book and a Moss catalog(they used to show vacuum hose routing and connections). You may not get vacuum at your advance hose at idle. Most years that vacuum is ported vacuum, comes off the carburetor behind the throttle valve, so until the speed is raised you won't have vacuum. Accelerate your engine and then vacuum should be present at that tube.
Vacuum retard should be manifold vacuum, probably going through a switch(or two) depending on the year. So follow the routing back to the signal point and check for obstructions, etc. All else fails you can tap it off of manifold vacuum to operate the retard.

If you have a vacuum pump, handheld mitey vac works find, I use it for vacuum testing and bleeding hydraulics. Apply vacuum to each diaphragm, first with the cap removed. You should see the breaker plate move when vacuum is applied. Then put the cap back on and start it, same test, watching the timing, you should see it change when vacuum applied.

That should keep you busy until you can get the boat back out on the water...