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Have been looking at a Healey 100/6 [56K No way]

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dalla

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Hi guys

My name is Dennis, and i live in Denmark.
I currently drive this Super Seven replica, which iam selling:
IMG_0681.jpg


Iam selling it, to make way for a healey 100/6.
I have been looking at a particular car, which have been converted to running a Ford 289 V8. While iam aware that this might not be to everyones liking, it very much appeals to me.
Well enough about that, i went a looked at the car yesterday, and eventhough there was some things that needed attention. It seemed like a fairly decent car.
The doors needed to be aligned properly, and it will defenietly loose those way too wide wheels. The interior seemed decent, but might get refreshed along the way.
It is a california car, and in my eyes it appeared to be in a fair condition underneath. But that is actually the reason of this post, as i got a feeling that i don't quite know what iam looking at/should be looking for. So i have attatched a lot of pics of the car and of the underbody. So i hope you guys could gather a opinion from those pics. My thought was that with a rotating wire brush, and some rust repelling paint, it would come far.
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Another thing that has been troubeling me is the model of the Car. The seller states it as a 1961, which it defenietly isn't, as it then would be a 3000 right? But one of the things i can read on the chassis plate, is BT7.
So i guess it must be one of those mentioned here:
https://www.healeysix.net/BN7 & BT7.htm

If i get the car, one thing i would be interested in, is getting some weather gear.
But iam finding it hard to find any pics of four seaters fitted with hardtops/softtops,
so if you have any pics of yours i would love to see them, especially detail pics from the inside and the fixings.

Iam very sorry for this long post, but any help will really be appreciated.
Thank you very much
Very kind regards
Dennis O. Nielsen
 
The rear shock(s) are mounted upside down, so they can't be working.

When posting pictures, it is helpful to put an "empty" line between each tag, as it keeps the pictures from all running into one another, like this:

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IMG_0750.jpg


IMG_0751.jpg


IMG_0752.jpg


IMG_0753.jpg


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Also, if the chassis tag says BT7L-****, then it surely is a 3000 model. If they're selling it as a 100/6 (with a 100/6 title) then something is fishy.
 
56K US? Maybe for a prestine "nasty boy". You got rust and other issues.You could get a nicely, professionally restored 3000 for that money. I'm sure a lot of guys on this forum would jump at that amount of money. My guess is about 12 to 15K but what do I know? Are they throwing in the original engine and stuff?
Randy, you should have a better estimate.
 
I think 56k was a warning to people that are still using dialup as opposed to cable or DSL. The photos will take forever to download on one of them old modems. :wink:
 
That's an awful lot of rust for a "California" car. My BJ8, built in November 1966 (only 5 years younger) is a California car with 165K miles and the chassis still has most of the original paint and where the paint's gone I still have 'shiny' metal. In particular, the rear shock mounts on this car look very bad.

For US $56K, you could come to the States, find a better car and ship it home and still come out ahead, methinks.
 
Hi Dennis,
You did say wheels, but I wanted to clarify that the rims will most likely need replacing to get the tires back under the fenders. The offset on them looks, well, off. One other thing to consider is you'll be mostly on your own fixing any problems pertaining to the engine. Since it is a custom install (that you didn't do) figuring out how things are wired and put together could be a major headache. Hiring someone to do it will be very expensive.
 
Hi Guys

Thanks for your answers.

56K was merely a warning to people with slower 56K modem internet connections.

The price is around 35.000$. Are the rust really that bad, iam not that familiar with these cars? Might be looking for an original one then.
 
Hello Dalla,

good idea to ask here before buying the car.
I had also a "california" car with less rust , but with don`t known a bending frame as I buy the car.
What I learned the healey frame is a paper frame.( thickness 1,5mm)
Before I owned a Triumph TR6 with heavy metal frame.
Check importantly is the frame straight ! I can see some big dents on the frame main rail...
How perpendicular are the front suspension mounting brackets to the frame ?

Around the engine mounts specially with the big new engine the healey frame has normally cracks on the topside of the frame rail.
How smooth is the shroud from the underside ? The shroud has normally cracks in the near of the hood corner ?
Petrol tank is normaly rusty from the bottom side, except the bottom is greasy...
You have to answer if you want a car with US-engine, nobody in europe like KIT cars ( you know....) It is a 50 years old car , you can´t compare it with your modern super seven.
Check your administration specs. for a modified car, attention you live in Europe not in the US.... In Germany I have no chance to register this car...

Check the underside with a car lift. Never buy a car on the floor !
Check the bottom area under the accumulator.
Check the gauge function, all electric functions, how old is the wire harness ?

Best Tip :Surf in the internet about healey restorations with pics (search with english keywords),so you can learn where are the hidden rusty corner on the healey are.

Also california cars are rusty inside the back inner side of the front fenders. Check the fender corners,california cars are very sandy, (desert area) with some water the rust in the corners will grow...

Check the doglegs ( part from back fenders)near the rocker panel.
Check serious the rocker panel ! There are three parts !( outside /inside and a middle sheet panel)

https://lh5.ggpht.com/_ZC3AHjP_dhY/R1BkLT0DCHI/AAAAAAAABCc/ou8BeXSIqZ4/SCAN0029.JPG

(not my car )

Attention in your IMG_0743.jpg you can see a crumbled triangle stiffener panel! Reason.. ?

I can write a never ending story. If you will learn something about healeys...follow my best tip !
This is a good site ( but not a california car)
https://www.healeyjournal.com/pages/bgouterbody.html

Price for this car in europe not more than 20K Euros.

Bye michel- who has to manage a full restoration after buying a "driver car".....
 
Thank you very much Michel, that answer is greatly appreciated.
Sounds like i will have to be very careful. Might look a bit more around then.

Dennis
 
Hi Dennis,

I have a Ford 302 and automatic OD transmission installed in a '59 100-6. I am also the web master for the Modified Austin Healey Registry. My car is # 1.

My guess is that here in the USA, that car would be sell for LESS than $20,000. In my opinion, it is not a very professional or well done installation.

In order to "properly" address the rust issues, ALL of the red sheet metal will have to come off and the interior will have to come out. There is NO other way.

My advise would be to EITHER:

1) Walk away from it and spend some time looking for a better car. Take a look at the "FOR SALE" page on the modifiedhealeys.org web site. OR

2) IF you can buy it for less than $20,000... Buy it, have fun with it, drive it like you stole it, then SELL IT. I would not put ANY money or effort into it. You'll NEVER get it out.

If you want to chat more out of forum, my Email is at the bottom of the web site home page.

Tim Moran
 
My opinion.

Don't compare danish prices to American prices. There is a very limited supply of specialist cars here and they are always overpriced.

Taxes on a car in Denmark are very very high, though on that car it shouldn't be more than 10000 kr or so.

It might be difficult with inspection with the ford engine. Recent rules disallow ANY engine changes. The 20% increase in power limit is no longer valid, it is now NO ENGINE SWAPS period. (unless you can BS your way through or it was approved before the law change)

Something can be purchased from USA, but getting an honest evaluation is difficult without travelling over to see it in person. Therefore purchasing one at the "lower" prices over there is difficult without being cheated.

Often the savings in purchasing from USA can pay for a vacation and transportation of the car.

That car looks a bit rusty for 175000. I would expect a pristine car for that price. (there was a very -very -very beautiful low mileage, original, hardtop, overdrive TR6 on dba recently for 150000kr)

Engine swaps were common in usa for those cars. They were usually done by home mechanics and quality varied considerably. It's not the original dash or instruments. The chassis number is written on with a "marker"! I wonder why. Personally, though it looks very good on the outside, I wouldn't have it, I'd go for a more original version.
 
My opinion:
After looking at the panel/door fit and underneath pictures...run.
The car probably needs a whole new frame.
Patrick
 
Hey Dennis,
Have to agree with what everyone else is saying - run, don't walk away from
that Healey !!! You have so many issues and so few answers that it would
probably be a huge money pit for you. I have seen many very nice BT7's sell
for high 20's to mid 30's US recently. I don't know what your cost would
be to ship one from US to Denmark but find out and then start looking at
US ebay, and the US Healey clubs classifieds. Good luck, and I also agree
that it would be a far better investment to get an original car, not a
modified one. I know of a very nice 66 BJ8 you can get for around $30,000
if you have any interest in a BJ8.
Regards,
Mike
 
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