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Harold's Adventure

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jlaird said:
Long as the rust through is open the inside can be cleaned and recoated with some modern stuff before putting the stainless on. Yes it is kind of a perment solution and that seems ok to me as long as you are reworking a fun driver and not one for show. Or are so hung up on haveing every bit just right.

Think I would put the stainless on and take that little girl for a ride.
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Thanks R6MGS, Jack, Tony and everyone for the encouragement. The rust hole is treated with POR15. I'm very tempted by the stainless steel plates of R6MGS, except I have no idea how to pop rivet something like that! I need to do some reading.

I'd love to take Isabella for a ride. This will mean reordering my job list to put a) replacing the frayed lap belts, and b) replacing the passenger seat belt, at the top of the list /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif
 
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]a) replacing the frayed lap belts, and b) replacing the passenger seat belt, at the top of the list [/QUOTE]

Would probably be worth it just to see the happiness on her face & the smile on mom's also!!

What do you need to make the belts useable?

I don't think the sill covers of R6MGS are pop riveted on.
 
yeah...they are pop riveted...on the blue car at least, the green one required some improvising due to the lack of good metal down there. The sills come with a finishing strip at the top that rivets in place first, then the actual sill slides into the finishing/mounting plate and then you rivet the bottom of the sill to the car on the underside(just before the lip) so you can't see any rivets onces it's done.

You can sorta see the finishing lip at the top I am talking about in this pic.....BTW don't wanna hijack but this pic reminds me about that ID plate, I got a new one but where can I get it stamped? Or get a kit to do it myself?

284243_84_full.jpg
 
It may be that you are just expecting too much from the brakes, Julian; while MGB brakes were considered quite good in their day and are still perfectly acceptable for street driving, it's not fair to compare them with the multi-piston calipers and 4-wheel disks of a late model Porsche 911!

Still, I suspect that a good adjustment on the rear drums will make them feel much better.
 
tony barnhill said:
<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:]a) replacing the frayed lap belts, and b) replacing the passenger seat belt, at the top of the list
Click to expand...

Would probably be worth it just to see the happiness on her face & the smile on mom's also!!

What do you need to make the belts useable?

I don't think the sill covers of R6MGS are pop riveted on. [/QUOTE]

I think she'd want to drive!

265101777_f2b8a2026f.jpg


The belts are old and frayed: I bought new ones from Victoria ... so am ready to fit them. I assume a simple job (!)

The sill covers are looking better and better to me all the time! Do you have them in stock, Tony? Is attaching them an expert job, requiring special equipment?
 
Great, I love to hear about the first runs around the block.

All I can say is GREAT!!!!

Patrick

edit: also love to see young kids facinated with LBC /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif cheers
 
I don't keep them in stock - can get them....never put a set on but I can't imagine its rocket science...you can do it!
 
A few 1/8" drill bits and a pop-rivet tool. Stainess steel rivets.

"Every Picture Tells a Story..." !!!

Yeah!
 
Yup, it can be done in about a 1/2 hour...assuming you've got something solid to rivet too(and it looks like u do)...Just make sure you triple check ur leveling.
 
DrEntropy said:
A few 1/8" drill bits and a pop-rivet tool. Stainess steel rivets.

"Every Picture Tells a Story..." !!!

Yeah!
Click to expand...

So here's a dumb question: to rivet, don't you need access to both sides of the work? How can you rivet a sill cover on, since you don't have access to the inside of the sill?
 
No need for access to both sides...drill the hole, put the rivet in, crimp with rivet gun....it does the underside all by itself!
 
The beauty of pop-rivets! The tool can be had for little money, Marson makes a great one. Just remember: Stainless rivets. And align/check level with a long straight-edge before ya drill holes into Harold. /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/wink.gif

The belt replacement can be a real challenge, kinda like a Chinese woodblock puzzle. Pay close attention as to how the "old" ones are "wound" and you'll be fine.
 
Go to the hardware and ask to see a pop rivet kit. Everyone should have one. Cheep stuff.
 
I just received my set of these sill covers from Victoria (via Tony, at an attractive discount: thanks Tony!)

There were no attachment instructions, but the procedure looks fairly obvious (there are two thin strips which I believe attach first, at the top, then the larger pieces slot into these, and are screwed along the seam at the underside of the sill). I do have a couple of questions:

1) Should I prepare the paintwork/surface of the sills before attaching the covers?
2) Should I use some sort of sealant? How much? What type?
3) I presume small self-tapping screws are fine (there are pre-drilled holes in the pieces)?

Julian
 
1. Yep make it so it never rusts underneath.

2. What ever would suit your fancy I would expect.

3. I am sure that's what I would do.
 
Scott_Hower said:
Julian-

#3.. use 1/8in stainless pop rivets!

edit: can you post photos of what you are trying to attach?
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Hi Scott,

Sure ... here is the kit:
433058074_a0157132f1.jpg


(Bigger version here: https://farm1.static.flickr.com/158/433058074_c9da17d48d_o.jpg)

There are two pieces each side: a long thin strip and the cover itself. Each piece is covered on one side by a coat of white plastic, to protect the finish. There are pre-drilled holes for screws (according to the Victoria catalogue).
 
Thanks; I have no earthly idea what the long strip is. Perhaps it's a backing/reinforcement for folks who don't have much sill left to attach to?

Does it mount on the top or the bottom?

You can use screws, but if it were me, I'd pop rivet them in place using stainless rivets. If you screw it on, use stainless screws or they'll leave rust trails.

Also, if you have a choice, use the type of rivet gun with an "extended nose" , not the kind that sits flush against your work (I've scratched many a workpiece using the latter type)...

Happy sill covering!
 
The narrow strip is upside-down (as is the cover). It's the top attachment point and if this were my job it'd go on with stainless pop-rivets AND clear RTV as a sealant. The cover part attaches to it via a lip and is then attached to the lower part of the existing sill. Again: SS pop-rivets.

"Measure twice, DRILL once." in this instance.
 
DrEntropy said:
The narrow strip is upside-down (as is the cover). It's the top attachment point and if this were my job it'd go on with stainless pop-rivets AND clear RTV as a sealant. The cover part attaches to it via a lip and is then attached to the lower part of the existing sill. Again: SS pop-rivets.

"Measure twice, DRILL once." in this instance.
Click to expand...

Thanks Doc :smile:

I may get around to this job today, but am still fitting carpet ... a much longer job than I'd anticipated!
 
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