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Hanging gas pedal in BE

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lbcfan

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I haven't seen mention of using the newer Midget hanging pedal in the BE. A lot of us have the new floor pan that does not accommodate the hinged pedal. The first link is to a photo of my installation with a Paddy Hopkirk pedal, but the best is the second link to a series of instructional photos (by someone else) on another Board. I assume it's ok with them to post that link.

https://www.imagehosting.com/photo/albums/accelerator-pedal

https://www.spritespot.com/gallery/view_album.php?set_albumName=New-gas-pedal
 
Where did you purchase the floor pans you have that do not accomodate the hinged pedal? I also need to replace just the footwell portions of my floor pans, but I want to retain the hinged pedal.
 
I had my driver side pan replaced 15+ years ago. I have read that this is still an issue with the newer pans, but I do not have first hand experience.

In refitting my interior I did notice the passenger side pedal screws (for RH dive) were much further forward towards the firewall than I would have thought. I had been looking to mount the pedal further back.
 
Thanks for the reply. After some of my dealings with Moss and VB, (see my post about windshield to body seals) I'm a little leery about spending money for parts that don't work. I may just contact AH Spare when I get to the point of replacing them.
 
Easy- that is what I have done several times.
I unbolt the peddle, bend up a small piece of metal, bolt it to the pendent and drive (and that is only if you want to get fancy. If you don't then just remove the peddle and drive!).
Couldn't be easier
BillM
 
Maybe if we all gave the suppliers feedback when something doesn't work right, but I never do. The only thing I ever returned were the coil springs, which were too long.

Other issues- choke cable too long; brake pipe clip mounting holes too small; rubber boot for steering column through fire wall to big to seal to pipe; windshield to body seal(you know); fan belt too short; door seal material too fat; rearview mirrors that won't stay put; steering rack pinion oil seals that don't seal, etc. Mostly minor annoyances...

That having been said, I'm grateful for how much is available.
 
FWIW, any rubber parts that I need that I can get from MacGregor, I will do so. Martin is a LBC rubber parts geek, and I have full confidence that any thing he has is correct. I'll also buy his Bristleflex draught excluders when the time comes. He is very accessible via phone and very helpful with his information.
 
lbcfan said:
I haven't seen mention of using the newer Midget hanging pedal in the BE. A lot of us have the new floor pan that does not accommodate the hinged pedal. The first link is to a photo of my installation with a Paddy Hopkirk pedal, but the best is the second link to a series of photos on another Board. I assume it's ok to post that link.

https://www.imagehosting.com/photo/albums/accelerator-pedal

https://www.spritespot.com/gallery/view_album.php?set_albumName=New-gas-pedal
Click to expand...

Looks great!!!!If your need some additional room for your size X's, you can move the dimmer switch up, and only use one screw. :thumbsup:
 
I should have been more clear. The second detailed posting isn't mine. I included it for the information- it's what informed me. Sorry about that. I can't take credit for the post or the feet. If you want to see my feet you have to go to the last photo in my "some photos" posting from 12/24.

Hope this isn't construed as pornography- I don't want to be barred from the forum for life...
 
That is an incredible amount of work overall. The result looks great. Is the last photo where you are now?

Thanks for the photos.
 
I'm confused as to the question, on my 65 which has the same floor pan the pedal was mounted in the right hand corner on the flat spot outside of the depression, there would be no need to weld the metal plate in that is shown in the picture. If you look at the floor on the passenger side it is exactly like the Driver side and mine actually has screws in the positionn they need to be.
I used measurements from the passenger side to recreate the pedal position on the driver side.

Mark
 
HAN8L1965 said:
I'm confused as to the question, on my 65 which has the same floor pan the pedal was mounted in the right hand corner on the flat spot outside of the depression, there would be no need to weld the metal plate in that is shown in the picture. If you look at the floor on the passenger side it is exactly like the Driver side and mine actually has screws in the positionn they need to be.
I used measurements from the passenger side to recreate the pedal position on the driver side.

Mark
Click to expand...
The replacement floor pan you installed must be offset correctly. You're lucky! Where did you buy it from?
 
lbcfan said:
That is an incredible amount of work overall. The result looks great. Is the last photo where you are now?

Thanks for the photos.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the kind words. Yes I suppose the last photo of the rust repair on the bayonnet support channel is basically where I'm at. I just finished welding the repair piece on and applying some filler to the weld. Now I'm working on fabricating the bonnet hinge plates to be welded to the bonnet rear support/hinge mount piece. The original was bent and cracked so I opted to buy a replacement. I didn't know that it didn't come with the threaded hinge mounts on the back side. Little things like this take time to sort out, as you probably know. I'll get that welded in place then put the bonnet on the car to test the fit. Both inner and outer rockers were changed so I'm keeping my fingers crossed on the gaps between the bonnet and the rockers. I'll get more pictures taken when I get an appreciable amount of work done.
Take care
Mark
 
Never having done welding I'm in awe of what you took on. My (BE's) body has been pretty well preserved by leaking oil and grease, and very occasional use, but will still need rocker panels if I ever do a respray.

Please post updates once and awhile.

Michael
 
I replaced my Bugeye's organ pedal with one out of a 1500. The left hole mounts perfectly, but you need to drill a new one on the right. Use a small drill and mount the right side with the largest self tapping screw you can get to go thru the bracket. I drilled too large a hole and had to use a nut and bolt and it's very difficult to get to the back side. The 1500 pedal really fits my big feet well and I would recommend the change.
Rut
 
If I did it again I would put some epoxy on the bolt head and push it through from the outside, putting the nut inside. It's going to be a pain to remove in the future with the nut outside, in that space.
 
It is indeed a royal pain! I used a trick from the trailer hitch people...they send a stiff wire with a coil on one end and you screw the bolt into the coil and feed the wire thru the hole pulling the bolt thru as well. You can use a small single strand fishing leader and wrap it around a smaller bolt, remove it and screw in the bolt you want to pull thru, works like a charm.
Rut
 
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