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Wedge Halogen H4 headlights for a TR8

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Larry, I recently installed the TRF Lucas TriPod replica lights in my TR6 with no ill affects to the electrical system and I have H-4's in the lamps.
 
Larry, I've been running Sylvania, sealed beam halogens in my TR4, with a Delco alternator upgrade and in the E-type, with a Hitachi alternator upgrade for several years with no ill affects. However, I don't do a lot of night time driving.
Bob
 
Personally, I would not do this without adding relays.

I run Cibie H4 "E-codes" in my MGB, they are 90/100W, purchased from Daniel Stern Lighting:

https://www.danielsternlighting.com/

No financial interest, just a happy customer. They are not street legal (technically), but the beam cutoff is razor sharp and I've never been flashed by an oncoming car. They are great headlights @ $62ea.

The Hella relays/fuses and wiring were all sourced from British Wiring.
 
I think that my H-4's are only 55/60 watt. Maybe that's the difference between street legal and the heavy draw?

I have a stock alternator and see no issues so far.
 
Brosky said:
I think that my H-4's are only 55/60 watt. Maybe that's the difference between street legal and the heavy draw?
Click to expand...

Certainly the heavy draw. But "street legal" is a different question. At least in CA, old cars are required to be fitted with "DOT approved" headlights (even though new cars are not), and the E-code H4s are not DOT-approved.

BTW, the relays are still a good idea, even if you don't up the power. They will get more voltage to the bulbs, which means more light on the road.
Not to mention extending the life of those antique (and expensive) switches.
 
Brosky said:
But "street legal" is a different question. At least in CA, old cars are required to be fitted with "DOT approved" headlights (even though new cars are not), and the E-code H4s are not DOT-approved.
Click to expand...

Agreed, but do some research at the aforementioned lighting site. While they are not strictly DOT approved, they are much higher quality and better focused than your average daily driver/transportation appliance.

The only reason Cibies are not DOT approved is because the OEM chose not to play the US extortion game for DOT certification($). It has nothing to do with the quality of the light.

I'd be surprised if any inspector actually looked at the light to see if it was DOT approved.

And I still would not run H4 lights without relays, especially with an upgraded alt. You're just asking for trouble/melted harness/overloaded switchgear.
 
Scott_Hower said:
While they are not strictly DOT approved, they are much higher quality and better focused than your average daily driver/transportation appliance.
Click to expand...
/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/iagree.gif I've been running "illegal" headlights since about 1975 or so, they make a big difference !
Scott_Hower said:
The only reason Cibies are not DOT approved is because the OEM chose not to play the US extortion game for DOT certification($). It has nothing to do with the quality of the light.
Click to expand...
That I don't agree with. The very improvements that E-code lamps offer are what make them not meet the NHTSA requirements. In effect, we are required by law to have lousy headlights !

Among other issues, the NHTSA doesn't like the light thrown to the curb side, to light signs and such, since it might possibly blind oncoming traffic to the right when making a right turn.

There is hope, however. The NHTSA is considering changing it's rules. See
https://www.danielsternlighting.com/nhtsa/NHTSA.html
 
Scott_Hower said:
Personally, I would not do this without adding relays.
Click to expand...

I've run Euro H4s in all my cars since the 60's (we have fewer regs to worry about in Canada - or at least no one worries about them) without any trouble. Including in my 81 TR8. With the 55/60 watt bulbs you'll be completely fine. Although personally, I'd go with the regular Bosch/Hella/Cibie H4s rather than those.

If you're looking to run 80/100 watt bulbs, you will need to upgrade some things. I run those in my Miata (no problems) and in by wife's Legacy (melted the connector at the rear of the lamp). For most 30 year old British cars, I'd agree with Scott - you'll want to do some wiring to support the 80/100s. I'd also agree that the superior aiming/cutoff on the Euro lights mean no problems for other drivers. Heck, the SUV drivers never look that far down!
 
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