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How hard is it? Any special tools? I have a u joint w/ some slack and figured since I've gotta do the brakes that I should fix it while I'm in the neighborhood.
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wingsandwheels
Senior Member
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not too bad of a job, but enough of a pain that you won't want to do it that often. the biggest challenge is getting the inboard (diff) flange bolts tightened to spec.
couple tips i learned from doing a few:
-clean and lube the axle splines and use a good, long lasting moly paste intended for spline joints (not just a chassis grease w/ moly), i like Honda Moly 60
-use new and proper bolts for the diff flange. get the proper bolts from TRF or one of the other suppliers or use AN (aircraft) bolts w/ the right grip length. i now use all metal locking nuts. this is not a place for hardware store fasteners..even the grade 8's.
-some of the studs that hold the axle backing plate to the swingarm may back out. if the threads are still decent, i've had good results by cleaning the studs and holes and carefully setting the studs back with medium loctite. if the threads are shot, there are a few fixes; helicoil, etc.
good luck.
w
couple tips i learned from doing a few:
-clean and lube the axle splines and use a good, long lasting moly paste intended for spline joints (not just a chassis grease w/ moly), i like Honda Moly 60
-use new and proper bolts for the diff flange. get the proper bolts from TRF or one of the other suppliers or use AN (aircraft) bolts w/ the right grip length. i now use all metal locking nuts. this is not a place for hardware store fasteners..even the grade 8's.
-some of the studs that hold the axle backing plate to the swingarm may back out. if the threads are still decent, i've had good results by cleaning the studs and holes and carefully setting the studs back with medium loctite. if the threads are shot, there are a few fixes; helicoil, etc.
good luck.
w
Lewis_McDorman
Senior Member
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If I remember right, You'll need to turn the inboard dust boot inside out to get it out through the trailing arm--there's not enough clearance for it between the trailing arm and the u-joint assy. In fact, you might as well do that first so you'll have better access to the inboard flange.