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GT6 GT6+ wishbone strut rivets
- Thread starter 19_again
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If you need to replace those rivets, I'd question the further viability of the wishbone assembly itself. I'd measure it all up carefully before even thinking about attempting any such repairs. Better yet, I'd just look for another one. They're not all that rare, since the same wishbone was used on all but the very earliest Heralds, as well as all Spitfires.
IanF
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I agree. Just replace the entire part. Used ones are not difficult to find:
www.spitbits.com (call or e-mail)
www.tsimportedautomotive.com
...just to name two possible sources. theautoist.com (BCF vendor) would be worth asking as well.
Or post a request in the NASS Yahoo group.
www.spitbits.com (call or e-mail)
www.tsimportedautomotive.com
...just to name two possible sources. theautoist.com (BCF vendor) would be worth asking as well.
Or post a request in the NASS Yahoo group.
V
vagt6
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What they said, above. It's not that huge of a job to replace the whole shebang.
And as always, I recommend Spit Bits. The owner, Nigel, is a Brit import himself and is deeply involved in the LBC car club scene on the left coast. If you have a tech question, call Nigel, he'll help.
Let us know what you do, and good luck! :thumbsup:
And as always, I recommend Spit Bits. The owner, Nigel, is a Brit import himself and is deeply involved in the LBC car club scene on the left coast. If you have a tech question, call Nigel, he'll help.
Let us know what you do, and good luck! :thumbsup:
OP
19_again
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I bent the strut support arm myself banging away at the bolt that had become one with the bushing sleeve, so I ordered just the support arm from VB as they were the only one who had one (after first checking bpnw and then spit then trf) I buy my MG stuff from Tony but didn't think of him for the GT. I try to go to supporting vendors first and tell them all why I'm dealing with them. Now I know to remove the entire assembly from behind the frame, I don't see any need to spend $150+ for the new A arm in this case as it is in very good shape except for my bone headed move. This is a Ca car with no rust, the used parts will only be as good, not better. IMO. Thanks for the excellent input, as usual.
Mike
Ian thanks for the new source also!!
Mike
Ian thanks for the new source also!!
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I don't see the point, either, which is why you should ask around for a used one. There must be thousands of them out there! I still worry that, even if it wasn't otherwise damaged from your initial removal attempts, yours might get damaged while trying to repair it. Not the most substantial piece of formed metal ever created! (I know: I once bent one when my GT6 slid in heavy snow and the RF wheel hit the curb and bounced off. Other than losing one of my pseudo-ROstyle wheel covers, there was no damage to the tire or wheel or anything else...except the lower A-arm!)19_again said:
foxtrapper
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That strut rod across the back of the wishbone doesn't do anything structurally. I wouldn't be surprised if it's there merely for ease of assembly on the production line.
As such, I'd be perfectly willing to run a car without it there, and I'd be equally willing to reinstall it with bolts or even pop-rivits.
As such, I'd be perfectly willing to run a car without it there, and I'd be equally willing to reinstall it with bolts or even pop-rivits.
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I'm not sure about that, since it's something that was added to the whishbone fairly early on in Herald production. Further, my concern is that whatever caused it to be damaged or loosened could also have damaged or distorted the rest of the wishbone.foxtrapper said:
Not being a fan of any sort of suspension failure, I'd want to err on the side of caution!
IanF
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Not sure which side you need, but there's a RH one on Ebay right now. $6 with no bids yet. Ends tomorrow. Item #280292471932
Re-reading your first post, I had to fight to get one of the LCA bushing bolts out as well. Ended up cutting it off. Also, if you have to remove the RH rear bracket, the nut that attaches it to the frame gets baked by the exhaust. I snapped off the stud trying to remove it.
Re-reading your first post, I had to fight to get one of the LCA bushing bolts out as well. Ended up cutting it off. Also, if you have to remove the RH rear bracket, the nut that attaches it to the frame gets baked by the exhaust. I snapped off the stud trying to remove it.
OP
19_again
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Ian, that a arm looks pretty good on ebay, I may grab it. as for the the exhaust bake, I hit those bad boys with 2 days of pb blaster before I took them off with great ease.
Steve, I haven't drilled them out yet, but the size can't be more than 3/16long X 1/8. If you have some I'd prefer that of course to using a standard rivet.
Steve, I haven't drilled them out yet, but the size can't be more than 3/16long X 1/8. If you have some I'd prefer that of course to using a standard rivet.