• Hi Guest!
    If you appreciate British Car Forum and our 25 years of supporting British car enthusiasts with technical and anicdotal information, collected from our thousands of great members, please support us with a low-cost subscription. You can become a supporting member for less than the dues of most car clubs.
    There are some perks with a member upgrade!
    **Upgrade Now**
    (PS: Subscribers don't see this gawd-aweful banner
Tips
Tips

GT6 GT6 Brake Job

Share this page

Saff

Saff

Member
Offline
I'm getting ready to do a 4-wheel brake job on my '73 GT6. The front calipers are a snap - I've done disc pads many times on many vehicles. With the rotors in good shape, I don't expect anyp problems.

On the other hand, I haven't done drums in about 30 years and I recall it being a nasty job (on a '64 Chevy Nova wagon, I think!). Assuming the drums are in good shape, what recommendations are there for replacement parts besides the shoes? Should the springs be replaced along with the shoes? Anything else?

Thanks!
 
Sometimes the hand brake cable needs to be adjusted and the wheel cyl need to be replaced. The springs should be ok but replace all the rubber.

It really isn't a hard job along as everything isn't rusted.
 
Saff, also make sure to clean and free up the adjuster completely, then coat the threads with anti-seize. It makes it much easier to adjust the rears. Other than that, as Tom says, it's a piece of cake. No where near as nasty as an old Nova. Drums on the front, too! Yuk.
Jeff
'67 MkI, KC5048LO
 
don't forget to check the inside surface of your drums they need to have an even surface that is smooth and not grooved and if you disconect your hydraulic lines, after reconecting them, bleed out your lines at each wheel at the back, starting with the one furthest from your master cylinder. You will need an extra person inside the car as you have him pumping the brake and once his foot is holding the pedal down, you then open the bleeder nipple as he holds the pedal down and not lifting his foot until you have the bleeder nipple closed. You probably already know this routine, good luck and enjoy your self.
 
Saff, any parts you might need are dirt cheap. If you need parts contact Nigel at www.spitbits.com . Great guy.

Dumb hint from a dumb guy: take off both wheels and drums. Do NOT take apart the brakes on both sides. That way you can use the opposite side as a reference when you are putting the side you are working on back together.

Since you are rebuilding your brakes keep in mind that your car is 32 years old! Replace EVERYTHING except the drums and backing plates. You just don't know how old the parts are. Then bleed the system completely. If you can find steel braded lines, pop for the money and get a great pedal feel from the brakes.

BTW, I replaced my pads and shoes with Kevlar stuff from TSI in Ohio. Once bedded in, they are much better than stock, and just will not fade in street use.
 
Hi Saff,

I strongly recommend replacing all the rubber brake hoses, unless you know for certain they have been replaced within the past 5 years or so. 32 year old brake hoses are trouble waiting to happen. Someone suggested stainless braided lines, and I agree, but they are a bit more expensive and rubber will do if you prefer.

Yes, definitely turn the drums. It's optional, but recommended on the rotors, too.

I agree, if you are looking for better braking, Kevlar brake pads, although pretty expensive compared to semi-metallic, will give you the most bang for your buck by far. The Roadster Factory (www.the-roadster-factory.com) sells a good brand. Ted Schumacher/TSI (TSimportedautomotiv.com) is also a great source for many brake related items.

Check the calipers and slave cylinders carefully for any faults. They seem to hold up very well in daily drivers, but don't keep well in storage. So it sort of depends on your car's history.

Along the same vein, have you rebuilt the master cylinder lately? Caliper, slave cylinder and master cylinder rebuild kits are relatively cheap and easy to install.

Oh, and change the brake fluid, even if you don't get into the system to overhaul master or slave cylinders, calipers or replace hoses. Most brake fluid manufacturers recommend complete replacement every 18 months. Of course, they want to sell you more brake fluid. But 2 or 3 years is likely as long as it should go without a complete change.

Sorry, I'm a bit of a fanatic about brake systems. It's always the first thing I check out on a car.

Alan
 
I'd agree with everything here. When I did the rears on my 73 GT6, I replaced everything, since I didn't know any of its history. IIRC, the parts were dirt cheap - I don't think I spent more than about Can$65.

Start fresh - its easier and more reliable.
 
Back
Top