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Hello, Peter, and welcome to the Forum.

Great looking frame! Brings me back to my TR3 when I redid it (though yours looks better!)

Be sure to keep us up to date on your progress.

Mickey
 
Welcome aboard peter. Your frame looks great. Hope you enjoy it here, and keep us posted on the 4.
 
Welcome Peter...great looking work so far.
 
Wow! Now THAT's how to do it! What's your estimated time line to have it all back together?

Basil
 
Thanks. The chassis is now fully assembled except for the rear end which will be done in a couple more weeks. The block and head are ready to be put together so I should have a complete rolling chassis before winter. Next year I will install new floors and rockers, the rest of the tub is already stripped. So with any luck, I've got around a year or so left to complete it.
 
Hi Peter! You and I have very similar taste in cars, I would be very interested to exchange info as I have owned my TR4a for 9 years and modified it to "fast road" spec for track use (Solo 1 for 7 years).
My car has only period mods, but very interested in your approach too.
I am currently doing a restoration of similar proportions after a heavy front end impact, I hope about the same time frame!
Simon.
 
Simon,

Since you had a heavy front impact, you may want to check out my brake mods /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/driving.gif (sorry about that!)
https://homes.midmaine.com/~kentech/tr4a/chassis/dcp_0624.jpg
You can see the Toyota calipers (can't see the slotted, drilled rotors or Axxis Ultimate pads). I still have to use a single m/c because of SCCA restrictions on class.

I have the 240Z aluminum finned rear drums and kevlar shoes fron TSI to prevent rear fade and installed 7/8" rear cylinders from a Morgan. If the rear brakes are too much and lock-up, I'll add a proportioning valve inline to balance them with the front.

Front bar is Addco 7/8" TR6 fitment that mounts to a TR6 radiator shield w/oil cooler. Rear bar is 5/8" TR4A Addco. Shocks are Koni's up front and Apple uprated Armstrongs on the rear. With this setup I should be able to kick the rear out for cornering using the brake/gas. All bushings are urethane. What do you think?????
 
That looks beautiful, Peter! Lots of shiny new bits, I still have a lot of cleaning to do. /ubbthreads/images/graemlins/canpatriot.GIF
A guy in our club has the Toyota calipers with vented discs, but he has a 285bhp. Ford 302 in his car.
My brake sysrem is stock calipers with Brembo discs crossdrilled by KVR in Ottawa, Axxis semi metallic pads, Goodridge flex hoses and the 240z finned drums at rear like yours.
I have only faded this combination at one track, Toronto Motorsport Park, which is very hard on brakes. This is with plenty of grip for hard braking, Yokohama 032R compound tyres.
I have a TR6 front bar, poly bushings, Spax adjustable gas shocks front and back and Triumphtune fast road springs (390lbs/inch) and 2cm lower.
I find my car 9which has irs) likes trailing throttle oversteer to help turn into the corner, but is neutral/understeering with the power on past the apex. When I spin its generally from entering the corner too fast, not on the exit!
Your setup looks very nice, and you should be able to use tyre pressure adjustments to fine tune it.
Your setup will depend on
 
All the shiny new hardware started with a couple of bags of grade 8 nylocs from the local Fasterall shop. I guess I got obsessed and replaced all the hardware as I went. My wife and I used to Solo a Formula 500 and hated when we broke parts because our day was over so new hardware goes in this one. I'm fortunate that she is in to the sport because it's easier to justify the cost and time.
Your car sounds like the hot set up. What have you done to the powertrain? I'd like DCOEs but for the street rpm I hear the cost doesn't justify the gains. I've done some head work, swept the chambers, cleaned up and matched the ports,3angle valve, .033 cut, 87mms, D spec cam and TriumphTune headers. Stock crank and rods, hydraulic t/o (no slave) for the 5-speed. I'm just about to put on the head and Gasketworks solid copper gasket - anybody have experience getting this baby to seal????

Peter
 
Peter, regarding the head gasket, unless you are running an extremely elevated C/R, just follow Morty's instructions on using Coppercoat, and you should be fine. At 16.7:1, I lost two of the solid gaskets on a 1500 Spit. If I ever try to run that high again, I'll have to install wire rings in the block to get it to seal.
I know Morty runs the same gasket on his TR4, so if there is any problem area, he would be the one to ask. (Morty Dunst, owner of Gasketworks.)
Jeff
 
Thanks. I purchased the spray with the head gasket so I should be good.
Peter
 
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