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TR2/3/3A green fiberglass fix it stuff

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sp53

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I am plugging some pin holes under the gas tank on a Pre60K tr3 with that green fiberglass fix it stuff, and I cannot get it lay very flat. The stuff kinda has the consistence of oatmeal. Do I just smooth it the best I can then grind it, or is there something else I can do with that stuff. I repaired some holes in other places and like the stuff. I am wondering what others do?
 
Sorry Marv I meant to say the floor under the gas tank. I am so self-centered that I think everybody knows what I am doing.
 
I assume you mean the stuff with glass fibers mixed in. That stuff is good for filling holes that you can put your fist through. When you try to smooth it over pinholes, it either leaves a big glob or pulls right out of the holes. Another alternative is to put on a layer of fiberglass cloth saturated with resin then a very light layer of plain filler (bondo) over that. Tom
 
I have nothing constructive to add.

On the non-constructive side...I hate that stuff! It's strong, but nothing is harder to work.
 
I use JB weld for in holes in sheetmetal as well. Its more expensive but if you put masking tape under the sheetmetal where hole is and dab a little bit of JB weld it flows out nice.

marv
 
Agreed! Just the regular strenght for that. I have found that if you want it smooth, after it sits a few minutes wet your fingers, keep them wet and you can smooth the JB out very nice.

marv
 
POR15 makes a product that works great for pits and small pin holes. It's called " POR PATCH ". I've used it several times with great results. It smooths out nice. ( It also works great on gas tank perforations ). I always use neoprene gloves and apply it with a finger. If you've used POR15 before you know gloves are a must !
 
I've used Tiger Hair before, chopped strands or pieces (2 types I believe) for minor small holes. I use the small piece variety and apply it with a plastic putty knife. With a wet glob (meaning ample liquid resin) first smear it over the area to fill with the putty knife using -no more than you need.- Now use the clean putty knife to press (HARD) on the smear and press don the center and edges all around the patch. With enough resin in the mix (and not too much hardener as it will harden too fast), you should be able to squeeze up some resin and allow the putty knife to release more cleanly. Keep the putty knife clean or use two, wipe with lacquer thinner to prevent sticking as you go. Get it good, wait a couple of minutes to press down again before it hardens especially the edges. Wax paper?
 
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