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grease for rear axle sliding joints

Norton47

Jedi Warrior
Offline
Whats the stuff to use on these sliding shafts?
I understand wheel bearing grease will not hold up.
I am ready to reassemble and am now wondering what to use?
 
Forgot to ask another question also about these.
I thought I read somewhere about swapping these to allow the other side of the splines to wear. They look unworn to me, but if it's the thing to do, it would be easy enough to accoplish right now.
Thanks
 
I recommend GM special lubricant #12345718. comes in a 1 lb. can, enough for at least two axles.

GM developed this to overcome driveshaft spline noise they were experiencing on trucks.

If anyone knows of a better axle lube, plese let me know.
 
Norton-

I have just had mine apart for cleaning and new grease.
I think it best to leave the two axels as matched sets
so they wear evenly. I used moly additive grease sold
in one pound cans that the auto parts store recommended
for the purpose at hand.

d

boot1.jpg
 
I'm gonna refute what Tinster says.

Moly was the best thing going in CV joints in the early 70's. Moly is usually a high temperature grease. It will absorb water and dry out and cake up. Ever pull an old cv joint apart. Or look at a Jeep Cherokee with the CV boots torn.

Better greases have come along. I recommend the GM grease as it is DESIGNED for axle splines. It will handle exposure to water and dirt(don't wanna BAJA one without a repack, or protective spline. It is better than Moly for axle splines.

PERIOD.

Sorry Tinster, But I work with cars every day, and am always being exposed to new data and product updates. Not trying to demean your input, trying to expand your knowledge.
 
RonMacPherson said:
I recommend GM special lubricant #12345718.
Just curious, are you sure that's the right GM P/N ? A quick Google turned up lots of hits, but the only description I found states :
"GM Vehicle Application: For use on control cables,various types of instruments and numerous interior devices requiring lubrication."
https://www.s-series.org/htm/tech/GMPerfParts/195-198.pdf

I'm willing to try it, but at $40/lb, I'd like to be sure there isn't a typo somewhere /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/smile.gif

DuPont Krytox sounds pretty slick too (pun intended) but at $200/lb, I'd rather adapt some axles with bearing joints instead of splines.
 
I just brought the can up from the garage to check it again.

GM Vehicle Care
SPECIAL LUBRICANT
Low Temperature
PTFE filled
Compatible with plastic and rubber materials
1#12345718 Gr.8.800
net weight 1 lb.
It's in a blue labelled can

Is what is says on the can. I got it from the GM dealer a couple of years ago. At that time it was $25 a can.
 
Thanks, Ron /bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/thumbsup.gif
 
why arnt there grease nipples on the axle splines, what a better description, grease nipple and you need two also
 
hondo402000 said:
why arnt there grease nipples on the axle splines
Probably because it's important not to fill the cavity with grease. And there's really no other way a zerk would lubricate the entire splined area.

Also, I believe the factory's position what that these were "lubricated for life", as I can't find anything in my documentation that even mentions being able to disassemble the splines, let alone how (or how often) to grease them.

I guess that was Triumph's life, not the car's life.
/bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/jester.gif
 
Fella's
I am trying a Loctite product called C5A. It is a copper based anti seize, with a temp rating to 1800 Deg F.
See https://www.newmantools.com/felpro/c5a.htm
I based this off of a recommendation to use Copaslip that Moss sells. Similar product except it has lead in it and is good to 2000 deg F.
I will let you know how it works.
 
TR3driver said:
hondo402000 said:
why arnt there grease nipples on the axle splines
Probably because it's important not to fill the cavity with grease./bcforum/images/%%GRAEMLIN_URL%%/jester.gif

What would be the problems with filling the cavity of a well worn, 75000 miles or so, shaft? Would the grease not slip through, alleviating the hydraulic problems?
 
I think if you filled the cavity with grease and the splines were extended as they would be if the car were on stands, when you put the car down you would develop a hydraulic lock. This would prevent the axles from completely retracting and transfering the load to something less robust. Like the hub mounting studs.

I use plain old moly-B on mine. I think as often as these cars need to come apart, refreshing the grease is not that big a deal to me.

Gordo
 
I have seen grease fittings on other vehicles splined shafts similar to the TR's. The fitting was on the inner shaft, not the collar. Internal passages distributed the grease to four quadrants and radially through groves around the shaft. There was also a hole in the end cap of the collar to allow excess grease to escape as the shaft moved back and forth.

My feeling is if the system is properly protected from weather, and properly lubricated to start with, they will be OK for a long time.
 
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