Got the new water pump in..but still have problem

[Basil]

Well, I finally found the time today to install the new water pump in the spit, but still have a small problem. My temp gauge doesn't work. I took the sender off and tested it in a pan of boiling water and it seems to be working. Also, the resistance at the connection to the gauge seems to change as the tem rises, so the wire from the sender to the gauge is good. Also, there is 12 volts at the other side of the gauge. So I am thinking that maybe my gauge is shot? Thoughts?

Basil

 

[steve99]

Basil,

Is the guage designed to be grounded? If so, is it? You could be right, the guage may have "bought the farm", however, I am learning with LBC's, whenever there is a concern anywhere that has to do with the flow of electrons, always check the ground, (or the tail pipe clamp).

 

[Basil]

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by steve99:
Basil,

Is the guage designed to be grounded? If so, is it? You could be right, the guage may have "bought the farm", however, I am learning with LBC's, whenever there is a concern anywhere that has to do with the flow of electrons, always check the ground, (or the tail pipe clamp).<hr></blockquote>

According to the diagram, it has +12v on one side, then the other side obtains ground through the sensor (which changes resistance as temp increases). That all "seems" to be in good order. I put "seems" in quotes because I've learned that things can "seem" to be good in these cars and really not be. I have a friend with an MGB torn apart. I wonder if his gauge is close enough to mine that I could hook his up and see if it works?

Basil

 

[Izual Angel]

Basil - Your explanation of the gauge is right. The gauge is kind of like an ammeter, with a different face. The higher the resistance (through the temp sender), the lower the amps. Your assumption that the gauge is bad is most likely correct.

[ 03-13-2004: Message edited by: Izual Angel ]</p>

 

[waltesefalcon]

Basil,

Bad gauge. I can probably get you one for the cost of shipping from my friend with all the parts if I can every catch the guy.

Cheers,

Walter

 

[Basil]

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by waltesefalcon:
Basil,

Bad gauge. I can probably get you one for the cost of shipping from my friend with all the parts if I can every catch the guy.

Cheers,

Walter<hr></blockquote>

That would be great! Let me know!

Thanks,
Basil

 

[piman]

Hello Basil,
the usual check for the temperature (or fuel) gauge is to short the sender wire to earth (with the ignition on), if the gauge is serviceable it will slowly go to full scale i.e. hot (or full).
These gauges are usually totally reliable. The supply, however, should be 10 volts as they are fed from a voltage stabiliser. This stabiliser is common to both the temperature and the fuel gauge.

Good luck,

Alec

 

[Basil]

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by piman:
Hello Basil,
the usual check for the temperature (or fuel) gauge is to short the sender wire to earth (with the ignition on), if the gauge is serviceable it will slowly go to full scale i.e. hot (or full).
These gauges are usually totally reliable. The supply, however, should be 10 volts as they are fed from a voltage stabiliser. This stabiliser is common to both the temperature and the fuel gauge.

Good luck,

Alec

<hr></blockquote>

Hmmm, that would be an easy test! I'll try that tomorrow and report what happens, thanks! (I knew I started this forum for a reason

)

Basil