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64rocksprite

64rocksprite

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Well, I finally got down to it and prepped to pull the 1098 in favor of the rebuilt 1275..
Now I need to get my Morris Service kit ordered and clean that awful looking engine bay. I am not sure why I thought grey was a good color to paint it...I guess when you're 13, that judgement is not there! 23yrs later..I'm repainting it!

oops..first time posting pics..that didn't work out the way I planned.. I guess these will be copy/paste!
https://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh281/64rocksprite/Engine pull/1098transout_3-15.jpg
https://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh281/64rocksprite/Engine pull/emptyengbay_frnt.jpg
https://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh281/64rocksprite/Engine pull/emptyengbayfrmcockpit.jpg
https://i259.photobucket.com/albums/hh281/64rocksprite/Engine pull/1275sideheader_flash.jpg
 
I don't really see that the colour of the engine compartment was wrong. It gets just as dirty after 23 years, no matter what colour it starts out as.

I was 14 when I first got my Frogeye. 36 years later I'm removing the 1098 in favour of a rebuilt 1275 - and a bit of restoration (see the FenrisSprite link)

I'm too cheap to pay the extra money for a nice lcb manifold like yours. I bought a Mini lcb for $35 and will cut and weld to make it fit the Sprite. I enjoy the work of engineering it and putting it together just as much, or even more than driving the car.
 
64rocksprite said:
Well, I finally got down to it and prepped to pull the 1098 in favor of the rebuilt 1275..
Now I need to get my Morris Service kit ordered
Click to expand...

Be advised that Paul A is/has been in the hospital so your kit may be delayed.

From the Spridgets list:

Pete said:
Paul's been down in the back for the past few weeks. He's been in the process
of getting some vertebral compression fractures repaired. This is
theoretically a "day surgery" / outpatient procedure but he had four of them
and they apparently can only address two of them in one procedure. So, doing
two sets of procedures has dragged the process out quite a bit and his
response to the first procedure didn't go as smoothly as hoped. So, he's been
really inactive for the better part of a month now and has lost a fair bit of
weight because the meds really upset his stomach. Assuming everything goes
well (and right now there's no reason to assume otherwise) he should be able
to get back in action but that is definitely going to be sometime on down the
road. Right now he's in the hospital, where they are finally checking him out
to see why he had the compression fractures in the first place. In the
process, his voice mail box has become full and his email folder probably even
more full ... and I'm not gonna mess with either of those. I've been trying to
help out a bit, Morriservice-wise, and have sent out a couple of smaller
orders that have been delayed because of all this. Unfortunately, I don't have
the ability or expertise to do much more than that. I check in with him on a
daily basis and can relay messages, if need be. I'll keep you posted.
Click to expand...
 
If you go back & and these before & after each of your photos, they might work as a link:
 
I'm a little concerned about the straight hard line to the clutch slave cylinder, but if you are fitting a 5-speed kit, then I guess you won't be using it.
 
Yes, but they had coils in the line to absorb vibration.
 
They sure did. I missed your "straight" line reference.
Imagine <span style="text-decoration: underline">my</span> embarrassment! :blush:
Jeff
 
Thanks tosouthern for linking those..one day I'll figure that out!
Tony, I'll give your suggestions a shot next time. How are we coming on that last order?

Donn - I went on a business trip to London..picked up a Mini magazine..Got that header from minispares for ~$280 shipped. I know its still $..but its better than the $400+ I have seen elsewhere! The shipping was $75, but I also ordered 1.5 rockers and a head-stud kit in the same order. It was on my doorstep in 4 days..no kidding.

On the clutch line..believe it or not..that is what the one I took off looked like..It'll be replaced with braided line on the conversion.

Man - Paul told me he was injured, but didn't say he was having surgery! I can't even imagine..back work is always painful. Hope he is up and feeling better soon (for his sake, not for my kit) I've written him a few times and he is very friendly and helpful.

I'll be a while until there's pics of it going in..need to clean, patch some holes, etc. Any suggestions on that awful dented crossmember? I thought about welding some channel over it. DPO of this body musta beat the snot out of it to get the engine out..

Have a Spridgetly day!
Devin
 
Kevin - Hopefully you'll see it in a day or so - its coming direct to you.
 
I had a similar cross member, twisted from a previous mishap, it was hidden somewhat by the steering brackets but I knew it was there. Had a friend that was a competent machinist/welder and he cut it out and replaced it with a new piece of square stock. As long as you take accurate measurments of the bracket holes it should be little problem to replace.

I can't post any pics as the body is at the blaster getting stripped.
 
er,
I think structurally, its probably OK..but its the look that bugs me. Not that my car is perfect by any means, but it looks like I work on my car with a 10# sledgehammer as my only tool! (well ok, sometimes I bust out the BFH..but only when she's askin' fer it!) :smirk:
I might fab some light sheet metal to just cover what i have, cut out the 'cover' in the areas where the rack mounts so I don't mess with the steering geometry or whatnot.

Devin
 
But... if you leave it, then it will be easier ro change the belt and pull the engine. Actually, will the engine is out you might want to recess a portion of the heater box to make it easier to get the Datsun tranny installed.

...never mind I just noticed that is has been recessed using the same tool.
 
Trevor,
Heh heh..actually the heater box is not 'modified', it does appear that way in the picture..that is the wiring harness running across and it got dragged upward a bit when I pulled this engine.
So..that said, how much extra room makes the 5spd easier to install? 1/2" or more than that?
I'm planning to have a load leveler for the install so I can tilt the eng/trans better. I did not have one for the removal.
Even with the 'tilt' capability..a recess helps out quite a bit?
 
Oh, I see that now.

3/8" is more than enough. You can get it in without modifying the heater box, but it requires some gentle tweaking with a hammer.
 
Thanks Trevor...good to pile up this info now so i don't have to curse like a sailor while the eng/trans is hanging from the hoist! Plus it'd take me 2 days to finally figure out the heater needed some 'work'. I'd likely sit there and try to figure out why I couldn't get it in!!!

Devin
 
I used the rivergate kit and it mentioned the "tweaking" in the instructions. I do not know what Paul suggests.
 
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