Getting the exhaust pipe off

[Wombat]

Hi,

The exhaust pipe on my TC2500 is very busted and I need to replace it.

The pipe is made in three sections that are held together with u-bolts. I've taken the u-bolts off, but the sections won't come apart. What is the trick to getting them apart?

Thanks

 

[Langelo DeMysterioso]

Shear force, ie: hitting with a hammer

and some heat from a butane torch would be my first way to go. After that I would consider cutting the pipe after the joint and then using heat to remove the remainder or crushing the male pipe with a wrench and or hammer then maybe some heat and/or WD40 then beating it into submission with a hammer. I like hammmers!

[ 02-29-2004: Message edited by: Langelo DeMysterioso ]</p>

 

[steve99]

Wombat,

You are probly not going to get those apart. The only thing I could suggest is heating the union with a torch to glowing hot and try to work them apart. More likley, you are probly looking at replacing the entire exhaust system. If its that rusty, probly wouldn't hurt to do that anyway.

Steve

 

[waltesefalcon]

Wombat,

One word Sawsall.

Cheers,

Walter

 

[Wombat]

Thanks for the (depressing) suggestions.

<blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial">quote:</font><hr>Originally posted by steve99:
You are probly not going to get those apart... ...More likley, you are probly looking at replacing the entire exhaust system.<hr></blockquote>
The thing is, the only way to replace the entire thing is to get them apart. It's not possible to remove the whole thing in one piece (because the muffler boxes are way too big to pass through the gaps that the pipe goes through) and therefore I have to get it into three bits while it's still in place.

All those suggestions about blowtorches worry me. I don't want to incinerate the entire car!

 

[piman]

Hello Wombat.

start at the back, remove all the clamps and soak every thing in a rust releasing fluid. Unbolt the tail pipe hangers and waggle the rear section to open up the slip on joint. Using a soft dead blow hammer, or a block of wood and a 2 pounder hit against the silencer to part it from the middle section. Plenty of release fluid and maybe a screwdriver into the slip joint. The secret is to get some movement in the joint. Quick it is not but usually it comes apart. The worst is probably your front pipe to the manifold as the studs often shear.
Best advice, fit a stainless system for long term.
By the way, you'll probably need new rubber clamps for the section where it passes through the rear sub frame.

Alec

 

[steve99]

Piman is correct, that, and alot of time and elbow grease may work. However, I cant think of a more "thankless" awful task. I think Walt has the best idea, just take a sawzall and hack it off. Alot less time (and knuckle) consuming and you'll stay alot cleaner.