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Getting into racing

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Andrew_Grannis

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Hey everyone,

It's been literally years since I've posted on this site but my father and I have gotten to the point where we are tired of the car sitting at the back of the garage and starting it every so often.
Just a little background on the car. From research we have done, along with help from our fellow NEOAHC members, we have decided that the car has a BT7 roadster body (the Jensen painted tag on the firewall does indeed indicate BT7), BJ7/8 convertible doors, BJ8 engine and a BJ8 number plate (aparently put on by whoever changed the doors). The main frame rails have a good bit of surface rust but there is no perforation anywhere. The biggest rust problem is with the outriggers/sills. The car has the notorious sag in the middle from this rust and from talking to a restoration specialist, there is no option besides a full restoration.

Now, down to the reason I've posted this in the racing section. Becuase this car is not number matching in any way, shape, or form, I don't believe that the $25,000+ investment that it will take <span style="font-style: italic">just</span> to re-tub the car to factory specs (including the many hours of perfecting panel gaps) makes much sense for this example. I have always wanted to get into vintage racing, and I feel that this car is a perfect candidate to turn into a track/auto x car.

My concept would be to rebuild the sills/outriggers without mind of how it was done from the factory, strengthen any parts of the frame that need it, and incorporate a roll cage that will be legal in vintage racing along with allowing for use of the folding top (I believe the SCCA requires 2 inches above the driver's helmet for the main loop?). The main loop would be in liew of the typical frame used for the top with two other supports that can be removed when the top is not in use.

So, for those of you that have taken the time to read through this long post, I really appreciate it and would love to hear your thoughts!

And just for reference, here is a picture of the car from this past weekend:
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7144/6414960673_e4353eb32f_b.jpg

Thanks in advance!

Andrew
 
Andrew -

I actively vintage race a big Healey and would be happy to point you in the right direction. Send me a PM with you email address. Vintage racing is a slippery slope and may require more then the basic the 5 minute consultation.
 
Andrew,

I'll make myself available too if you would like. Mine is a BN4 like Dougie's (but I don't run a hard top) and they are pretty much the same as a BT7. You are right about the roll bar height (but check for sure with the racing organization you will run with). Here in the NW racing with SOVREN we can prepare the car to either SCCA or FIA specs from the day - Dougie uses the FIA, means hard top & knock off wheels but allows Weber carbs, I use SCCA, means can be open, can use bolt-on wheels, but must run SU carbs.

Sounds like you want to retain street drivabilty - unless you are fairly short you will have to play with it a bit - I'm 5'11" and in my case, I can still put the top up but that limits the height of the bar so, I have a seat bottom that has almost no stuffing that I put in when on the track and I just barely comply with the 2"

Just my opinion but....One thought I have is to suggest you loose the BJ7/8 doors and rebuild the car with a set of roadster doors. Besides the fact that they would look right on the car, I think they are quite a bit lighter without all the window hardware. If you are patient, you can probably find a set of rebuildable doors for $500 or so & in fact could probably sell your doors for enough to get some earler ones.

So, Sounds to me like you are thinking this through carefully and I agree with your idea but....be prepared to spend more than you figure.....& try to remember it is incredibly addictive. Having said that, I have never had more fun behind the wheel.

Dave
 
Dougie- you have PM

Dave - Thanks for the input! I do want to keep street drivablilty and seeing as though I am 5'8", it looks like it's possible measurement wise (even if I do have to utilize your cushion trick). The cage on the car in your sig looks exactly like that I am invisioning, just a simple 4 point. Does your cage act as part of the support for the top or do you use the original mechanism?
When my dad and I started on this project a few years ago, we picked up a good pair of roadster doors for cheap and they will definitely be replacing the convertible doors.

Thanks for the replies guys!
 
Andrew,

I use the original top frame which is an overall arch but the roll bar is flat tru the middle. I mounted the bar as high as possible so the corners do cause small humps in the top at the sides (sort of a stretch fit).

If you want any pics PM me your email & I'll send.

Dave
 
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