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Hi all -- I'm reaching the final stages of reassembly on my TR3, when I peered into the gas tank to see that much of the coating that was previously applied (who know when that was) was flaking off. I was able to take a long stick and scrape alot off and suck out with a shop vac, but I'm figuring on doing a complete, clean, etch and seal, that I see so may kits offering. I've seen Hirsch's, POR-15, Eastwoods, etc. Anyone got the skinny on what works and what doesn't?
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Gas Tank Sealer
- Thread starter Mkutz
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none of it, what you see in there is all thats out there.Buy a new tank...I used to have a guy with ovens that you could drive a truck in, do my panels. He is gone. The best way to save your tank is to turn that coating into ash....or buy a new tank.That coating stuff ruins lots of good tanks.Build a bon fire get the kids and some marshmallows....toss the tank into the fire...have real long sticks for the marshmallows...
dklawson
Yoda
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BoxORocks comments are accurate where the tank was not properly prepped and the coating applied correctly. I've seen loose coatings before, primarily with the Kreme family of products (which would include what Eastwood sells).
POR sells not only their coating kit... they (at least used) to sell a product for REMOVING existing tank coatings. Acetone will not remove old tank coatings, the only thing that will attack them is probably MEK (as that's the solvent used in Kreme).
I have friends who have used and swear by RedCoat (spelling). It is apparently used by aircraft people, I have no experience with it. I have used Kreme and I don't like it. Of the readily available products I prefer the POR kits. Do not confuse this coating with the regular POR-15 product. The tank lining kit includes a much thicker and more rubber like material that is metallic in appearance. It also uses a much gentler solvent than the MEK used by Kreme.
In short, buy the POR chemicals to strip the tank regardless of which coating you re-apply. If you decide to re-coat the tank I again recommend POR based on my experiences with it.
POR sells not only their coating kit... they (at least used) to sell a product for REMOVING existing tank coatings. Acetone will not remove old tank coatings, the only thing that will attack them is probably MEK (as that's the solvent used in Kreme).
I have friends who have used and swear by RedCoat (spelling). It is apparently used by aircraft people, I have no experience with it. I have used Kreme and I don't like it. Of the readily available products I prefer the POR kits. Do not confuse this coating with the regular POR-15 product. The tank lining kit includes a much thicker and more rubber like material that is metallic in appearance. It also uses a much gentler solvent than the MEK used by Kreme.
In short, buy the POR chemicals to strip the tank regardless of which coating you re-apply. If you decide to re-coat the tank I again recommend POR based on my experiences with it.
T
Tinster
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Guest
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angelfj said:You need to contact Tinster in Puerto Rico.
<span style="color: #CC0000">My TR6 is presently "somewhat" operational with
a self cleaned tank, cleaned carbs and new fuel lines but I agree
with Box. I am not going to risk driving my car again until such
time as I can afford to have a custom fuel tank fabricated locally.
Probably not what you wanted to hear but my personal experience
is you cannot refurbish an old tank.
d </span>
dklawson
Yoda
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Dale, tank linking can be done. I have lined three tanks. The only one I had problems with was the first one where I used Kreme (and I took a couple of shortcuts). I highly recommend the POR kit for tank lining. However, as with ALL POR products, read and follow the instructions to the letter if you want good results.
Brosky
Great Pumpkin
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Dale is unfortunately not in the position that we, who live stateside are, with respect to radiator shops. He has had contaminated fuel in his tank and you have a poorly applied or peeling internal coating.
Different problems, similar solution, if you are stateside and have access to a good, old fashioned radiator shop.
I would suggest that you take your tank (after calling first) to a local shop and ask them to dip it in their cleaning tanks and then boil it out for you. They can probably get that junk out in an hour or so and may even be able to seal it for you (with somewhat of a guarantee), if it actually needs sealing. They can also leak or pressure test it at that time.
Years ago, most radiator shops routinely did gas tank repairs as part of their services and many still do.
Different problems, similar solution, if you are stateside and have access to a good, old fashioned radiator shop.
I would suggest that you take your tank (after calling first) to a local shop and ask them to dip it in their cleaning tanks and then boil it out for you. They can probably get that junk out in an hour or so and may even be able to seal it for you (with somewhat of a guarantee), if it actually needs sealing. They can also leak or pressure test it at that time.
Years ago, most radiator shops routinely did gas tank repairs as part of their services and many still do.
I agree with Paul, if you need to have a failed coating removed, and it must be in order to get a good result if re-coating call some radiator shops and see what they offer.
I had a place do the Red Coat to the tank in my AH Sprite almost 9yrs ago now with no problems and it sits for extended periods in the Northeast wintertime. The stuff is the best. I did a MGB tank with the Por 15 kit and it turned out beautifully , but you MUST follow directions to the T. I did the Por kit about 2 yrs ago and found that my pickup was clogged, I believe it had rust in it before the cleaning?. the tank bieng a "baffled" no longer available item looked so good inside I went thru MUCH trouble fabricating a new fuel pickup tube setup. Consider your time and effort as doing it yourself is alot of work. Hope this helps.
Mike
I had a place do the Red Coat to the tank in my AH Sprite almost 9yrs ago now with no problems and it sits for extended periods in the Northeast wintertime. The stuff is the best. I did a MGB tank with the Por 15 kit and it turned out beautifully , but you MUST follow directions to the T. I did the Por kit about 2 yrs ago and found that my pickup was clogged, I believe it had rust in it before the cleaning?. the tank bieng a "baffled" no longer available item looked so good inside I went thru MUCH trouble fabricating a new fuel pickup tube setup. Consider your time and effort as doing it yourself is alot of work. Hope this helps.
Mike
Yes, I talked to a local radiator shop who wanted $475 to clean it out. I told him that was an easy decision, because a new tank costs around $250. I'll check with some others to see what they say. I'll also check with POR to see what they have in their line up which specifically cleans out old coatings. The tank is in good shape, just some peeling which shouldn't cost a fortune to clean out.
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Mkutz said:
One of my son owns a radiator shop and he gave up coating gas tanks because the high cost of prepping the tank. It's cheaper to buy a new tank. He'll do it only if it's for a car that no tank is available for, such as a rare antique. The cost is very high. His method just for prepping, is a hot acid type bath. The license to use these materials is hard to get do to the environmental regulations that must be met. It's very costly. Naturally the increased cost rolls down to the customer.
Brosky
Great Pumpkin
Offline
Paul,
What you say makes sense about the cost today and the chemicals. When I was doing a lot of these in the 70-80's, things were different. We routinely cleaned tanks with a high pressure Steam Jenny and that did a great job as well. Take out the sending unit and run that hot steam through for 10-15 minutes and all of the junk would flush out.
That was the era of the GM diesels in Oldsmobile's for those who are wondering why this was done. Talk about contaminated fuel issues......
Actually, if you can find a shop that cleans parts using a Steam Jenny, that will do the job. It works like sand blasting, but with steam and soap.
https://www.steamjenny.com/steamhome.html
It also helped that our shop was only 20 miles from where these are made, so we had several gas fired steam units. Depending where Mkutz is in Maryland, he may not be too far away from the Somerset area. There has to be a shop near the company that does parts cleaning and will blast it inexpensively. I'd call Jenny and ask.
What you say makes sense about the cost today and the chemicals. When I was doing a lot of these in the 70-80's, things were different. We routinely cleaned tanks with a high pressure Steam Jenny and that did a great job as well. Take out the sending unit and run that hot steam through for 10-15 minutes and all of the junk would flush out.
That was the era of the GM diesels in Oldsmobile's for those who are wondering why this was done. Talk about contaminated fuel issues......
Actually, if you can find a shop that cleans parts using a Steam Jenny, that will do the job. It works like sand blasting, but with steam and soap.
https://www.steamjenny.com/steamhome.html
It also helped that our shop was only 20 miles from where these are made, so we had several gas fired steam units. Depending where Mkutz is in Maryland, he may not be too far away from the Somerset area. There has to be a shop near the company that does parts cleaning and will blast it inexpensively. I'd call Jenny and ask.
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Paul, the Steam Jenny way of cleaning, I think, has increased in use due to the chemical issue. My sons shop is in New Jersey and he has to collect the drain waists from the floor drains in his shop to be collected by a hazard waist removal company. There,s another added cost. Just seems to be no end. Most of the time it's just plain water.
dklawson
Yoda
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I tried to make an additional tank cleaning post to this thread... but my internet connection died the second I hit "Submit".
I visit many of the forums on this board. At least once during the past few months the Spridget forum has run a thread about DIY tank boiling. I have not used the technique but it's consistent with Paul and Brosky's suggestion for steam cleaning.
The method presented in the Spridget forum was to flush the tank with water, remove the sending unit and plug all such openings and vents, then fill the tank with water. With the filler neck open the tank is placed on a gas or charcoal grill and kept hot to the point of boiling as long as you have patience, preferably all day. Do not let the tank boil dry. According to those who have used this method, all the varnish and most of the rust and scale are loosened by the boiling and steam. Once the tank cools you rinse the tank and proceed with the chemical treatments called for on the tank coating instructions. Again, I haven't had to try this but several people on the Spridget forum have used the method and say that it has worked quite well.
I visit many of the forums on this board. At least once during the past few months the Spridget forum has run a thread about DIY tank boiling. I have not used the technique but it's consistent with Paul and Brosky's suggestion for steam cleaning.
The method presented in the Spridget forum was to flush the tank with water, remove the sending unit and plug all such openings and vents, then fill the tank with water. With the filler neck open the tank is placed on a gas or charcoal grill and kept hot to the point of boiling as long as you have patience, preferably all day. Do not let the tank boil dry. According to those who have used this method, all the varnish and most of the rust and scale are loosened by the boiling and steam. Once the tank cools you rinse the tank and proceed with the chemical treatments called for on the tank coating instructions. Again, I haven't had to try this but several people on the Spridget forum have used the method and say that it has worked quite well.