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Fuel Tank Coatings

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Got_All_4

Got_All_4

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This is a pic of the inside of my tank. For years there was a product that was used to coat the inside of gas tanks made by POR 15. It was their silver coating and they no longer recommend it for that use. I'm living proof and it's probably because of the alcohol content in the gas. Did everything right too. I remember cleaning it well and etching the metal. It cured for months too.
The problem started then I would drive the car and it would die out in the same place and having to limp it back home or tow it. The coating was lifting and coming loose then plugging up the outlet hole not letting enough fuel to reach the pump. Anyway I'm getting a new tank tomorrow and that should cure it.
 

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I have had mized success with tank coatings, on my Healey 100 I coated the tank with the Bill Hirsch product after I was getting a lot of rust silt in my gas, and drove it for nearly ten years after that with no issues whatsoever. I coated my TR250 tank with the same product and had trouble with it flaking off and clogging the tank just as you describe, but I later figured out that the tank had previsouly been coated or sealed with something, and I think the previous coating was more of the problem.

Anyway, for the latest TR250 tank (bought used for $50 and from a TR4) I did some internet research (mostly youtube) and ended up throwing a couple handfuls of small rocks in it and just shaking the heck out of it, my arms and chest hurt the next day. Then, rinsed and dried it out and of course had to turn it every which way to get the last stubborn rocks out of the tank. No problems since, been drving with the latest tank for about a year.
 
Here's a great trick for cleaning rusted gas tanks. Don't laugh it really works great and no rocks or bolts left behind. Use ice cubes, table salt and liquid toilet bowl cleaner. Swirl that around, then rinse well. Guarantee you will have a sparkly shiny tank when your done. No more rust, and nothing left behind. Ice cubes and salt are the abrasive that melts and dissolves away. Toilet bowl cleaner is the rust remover, varnish remover. Dry with a shop vac.
 
Gee I don't think my toilet brush will fit in my gas tank opening to swirl around! Seriously is there not a potential problem mixing salt with some of the cleaners on the market?
 
Got_All_4, how many years ago did you coat your tank? I have one of the tanks in my Mini coated with POR but it is not their silver paint. I used their tank lining kit which uses a similar but more elastomeric coating. I have had better luck with it than with Kreme products (the white tank liner). My POR lined tank has been in service for about 9 years now.

POR still sells the material I used both in quarts and in complete kits. They specifically mention it is compatible with fuels containing alcohol.
https://www.por15.com/US-STANDARD-TANK-SEALER/productinfo/TSG/
 
Personally I'd never coat the inside of a tank be it with a kit or having it professionally done. All it takes is one tiny 1/4" piece to flake off and your outlet is clogged and you've got a flatbed ride home..... in almost 16 years, the only time I didn't make it home on my own was due to the outlet getting clogged.
 
BobbyD said:
Personally I'd never coat the inside of a tank be it with a kit or having it professionally done.
Click to expand...

No dispute on the issue with clogging but there are times when tank coating (professional or kit) is justified. I mentioned that I coated one of the tanks in my Mini. My choice was based on cost as it involved the right-hand tank. While you can still source them, the price typically runs $600 to $700 for reproductions and because of that, good used ones go for around $400. A single POR-15 motorcycle tank lining kit will coat a small tank like mine for a fraction of the cost of replacement.
 
dklawson said:
No dispute on the issue with clogging but there are times when tank coating (professional or kit) is justified. I mentioned that I coated one of the tanks in my Mini. My choice was based on cost as it involved the right-hand tank. While you can still source them, the price typically runs $600 to $700 for reproductions and because of that, good used ones go for around $400. A single POR-15 motorcycle tank lining kit will coat a small tank like mine for a fraction of the cost of replacement.
Click to expand...

No argument that it's a fraction of the cost of a new tank for any car but, going back to my original statement...... all it takes is 1/4" of material to flake off and clog the outlet and you're dead in the water.... so to speak. Been there, done that and ain't never going back. It's the old risk reward decision...... the irony of the clog in my tank was that not even compressed air blown through the outlet would dislodge the crap..... nor would a coat hanger. I had to pull the tank, remove the sender and grab my 36" push to grab grabbers to pull it out. My only point is that anyone considering an internal coating needs to think it through before going that route.

Anyone deciding on coating versus new tank ought to consider a custom tank.........it's not as expensive as you'd think and you get it in aluminum with additional capacity.
 
ok anyone know how to get old coating that has gone bad out??? I have some old tanks with kreem that are no good. fire has crossed my mind but a couple are soldered tanks. Now I only use Red-kote. Nuts, bolts, rocks and a small pc of chain work to get the residue from old gas out of a tank, rust a few days in the phosphoric acid or molasses drum.
 
I took my old, tank, the one that had been coated, to a shop to get boiled out, when they discovered it had been treated they said they couldn't do it, when pressed they said they could, but the price would about triple and they couldn't guarantee the results. I think the coating can work if the tank is very well prepped, but if you have it that well prepped, removing all the rust, don't know that it would be necessary to coat it. I have had a couple tanks with these types of issues over the years, if the car stalls because of it, if you sit for a few minutes their is no longer pressure holding the flake or debris in place and you can usually soldier on for a while until it happens again. If that doesn't work you can reverse blow some air into the fuel line by disconnecting it at the carbs, if you don't have compressed air and don't mind the taste of gas, you can blow through the fuel line. I limped home from a track day last year, where the sloshing around really broke up a lot of debris, by doing just that. Ended up going 50 miles about 3-10 miles at time, but got home fine. Replaced the tank and used the rock method described above on the new used tank, no problems since.
 
Sorry to post and go but I got a ReNu tank from my local Triumph parts guy Friday for $200 and comes with a life time warrantee. Car is now all done and fuel is flowing to the pump freely. (actually not free lets see $200 for tank, $60 for fuel pump I didn't need and other parts you get it) I was trying to get the car(s) done for the Vintage Races at Mid Ohio next weekend. My son talked me into going and I guess Saturday is British Car Day and we get to drive a lap around the track and I didn't want to be setting in the passenger's seat. so I took my TR7 to my customer who works on LBCs to get my new seat covers installed by an expert upholsterer. Hopfully there done in time so I can take both cars. While I was there the owner had to show me his new project. Surprised he let me set in it. Someone rear ended the Lotus and probably never saw the thing . It only comes up to my waistline.

Anyway to answer dkLawson's question I believe it was done in 2003 and fuel wasn't put in it until 05. Now about the toilet bowl cleaner it really does work. At a different customers last fall and he was using it to clean rust off a Spitfire frame. He told me about the gas tank use too but didn't mention the ice cubes.
 

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Thanks for posting when you applied the POR. I will continue to keep an eye on my tank which was done within a year or so of when you coated yours. I am unclear though, did you use regular POR or their tank liner kit?
 
John,

A little bondo and tank sealer and it'll be good as new!

Scott
 
Hey, on a more serious note, I was wondering if it is possible to take a tank to have it galvanized? That's one of many things on my list to look into for this resto. If it's possible, it would completely eliminate the issues we have with rust.

Has anybody tried it?
 
Haven't seen any places that do galvanizing other than a manufacturer, the formula was change to reduce lead, but it is mostly zinc anyway.
I have a hot tank, will give that a try 1st, the tanks are a 34 Harley VL and the other is a new 60's mustang. Guess I've been lucky the 2 TR3 tanks I've done only 1 pin hole, soldered that, cleaned again and sealed.
 
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