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Fuel Rail 2.0

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Morris

Morris

Yoda
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I recently was persuaded by a broken fitting to redesign my fuel rail. I am pretty happy with how it came out.
 

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Actually, both the rail and the injection adapter were made with a small Harbor Freight drill press, an angle grinder and a hand held band saw. It could look much nicer if made with the proper tools and by someone with machining skills.
 
Sounds like we have a lot in common. The desire to make lathe/milling machine quality parts with a rock and a stick.
It sure build character(s) eh?

Glen
 
Anyone used on of those HF Machinist Milling Table Vices? for $49.95 it's a Cross Slide Vice that you can use to clamp work and then change X and Y Axis. My biggest problem with Cheap Chinese Drill press is getting accurate locations on holes that I want to drill. No it isn't a true milling machine but if I can relocate work easily and perhaps a laser pointer to show where exactly this thing is going to drill I can certainly increase accuracy.
 
I haven't seen that, but I am definitely going to check it out.
 
Take a 1/4 diameter pin and put it in the chuck. Move the X or Y axis of the machine until the pin is just touching the edge of the part. A piece of paper used as a feeler can get you real close. Then do the math, .125 plus whatever dimension you need. You can use a 1" travel dial indicator, very cheap at HF, and a mag base if there are no graduations on your table axis.
 
My biggest problem is the Chuck that comes spinning off and flying across the room whenever there is any type of side pressure on the chuck. Cheap Chinese Junk. Hey Sears does have a pretty nice Floor Standing 15": Drill Press on sale right now for $269.96 until Monday. Gotta buy some more 2 more patch panels for Bugsy instead.
 
Jim_Gruber said:
My biggest problem is the Chuck that comes spinning off and flying across the room whenever there is any type of side pressure on the chuck. Cheap Chinese Junk.
Click to expand...
Drill chucks were never designed to accept side pressures. If you try to do side milling with a drill chuck, sooner or later it will come loose & drop the cutter right into your work or worse.

Milling machines & mill/drills have very secure draw bolt retained chucks & or collets to withstand side pressures.

They cost more, but even a cheap mill/drill will work far better than a drill press. It has the additional advantage of very precision work location.


You can get precision edge/center finders like this for little money:
https://littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=1240&category=
D
 
Make sure the male taper on the machine and the female taper on the chuck are clean and free of burrs. A light, even coat of nail polish, I like Hot Red, on the male taper works very well to take up any gaps between tapers. You will still need to take it easy with side pressure. You can however mill using a stabbing motion with the quill for roughing then take very light side cuts for finish.
 
The biggest problem that I found with a crossfeed on a drill press is that the drillpress table shakes so badly that the crossfeed is basically useless. I bought the cheepo HarborFreight $499 mill/drill/lathe about 7 years ago, converted it to "inches" and have used it pretty sucessfully (even if with some difficulty due to small size) ever since, I love it!
Bill
 
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