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Fuel Pump

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hultman

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After a year in heated storage, my '71 E-Type failed to start. No clicking from the fuel pump when I turn on the ignition, and the motor fires quickly when fuel is squirted into the carbs, so the obvious culprit is the fuel pump.

However, I also note that the red ignition warning light does not come on as it used to when I turn on the key, and the turn signals seem to have quit working as well. So before I pull the pump, is there a possible electrical problem cuasing all three problems?

I've checked the fuses, although there is no fuse on the wiring diagram for the fuel pump. I expect I should just test for voltage at the pump, but my trifocals have a problem focusing in that little hole in the trunk, and I'm not sure if it wouldn't be easier to just pull the pump.

Any ideas?

Thanks!

Jim
 
Is your 71 a series 2 or series 3 (V 12)? It sounds like you might have a fuse blown which controls dash instrumentation and the fuel pump. Dont be surprised if a previous owner has taken fuel pump voltage from another source besides the specified fuse. It happens all the time.
 
It's a Series II, six.

But get this. I was sitting in the car after work today, talking to a friend who has the exact same car, whining about my problems. I had the ignition on, but wasn't touching anything. Suddenly, the pump takes off and clicks away as normal. I tried to start it again and it started right up.

It's still stashed away in the back of the garage on dollies, so I couldn't take it out on the road, but I did run it up to temp and restarted it a number of times and everything seems fine.

I still don't have turn signals or the red ignition warning light that used to come on when I turned on the key, but I'm making progress!!!

One more question. What voltage should I see on the top two fuses on the firewall? Both of mine show a -1 volt reading, which seems pretty strange.

Thanks for the reply!

Jim
 
Your experience with the point type SU fuel pump is very typical. MG owners open the trunk and hit them with a hammer and they start to work but we Etype owners dont have that luxery since the pump is hidden in the rear body. I would recommend that you get rid of the original fuel pump and get a rotary vane 12 volt pump that develops between 1.5 and 3 psi. Such a pump is available from NAPA. Also your E type would benefit from a solid state ignition system in terms of reliability. You definitely have an abnormality with your voltage measurement. You have to trouble shoot your wiring to determine how you get 12 volts to these fuses. You need a series 2 wiring diagram. I suspect that previous rewiring has caused this problem. The fuses behind the center dash are are clearly labled. Which fuses are they?
 
Yeah, the fuel pump is a problem. Now it starts clicking when I turn on the ignition and doesn't stop. As I recall, it used to click fast, then the clicking would slow down and quit as the pressure built up before I started the car.

I really hate to put an aftermarket part on the car. What do you think of the new replacement pumps? I know some are points and some are solid state, but I would much rather have an original type, if I could find a reliable one.

I'll have to look to see what the labels are on the fuses.

Jim
 
Jim,
Anytime that either if the SU fuel pumps in my Jag does the rapid clicking and does not slow as pressure builds, it usually means that I have a float in one of the carbs that is not behaving. Usually, if the pump is not not working, it is not clicking although there have been times that the diaphram has needed to be re-sealed. An easy check is to simply open the fuel delivery system at some point and see if the SU will pumop petrol into a can. You will know immediately if the problem is the pump.

I think that the most likely scenerio is that that one of the 3 carbs on the fuel rail has a problem. Most likely some crud from the fuel system got pumped into the float bowls after the car sat for a year.

Webserve
 
Jim, You would know if your carburetor had a leaking needle valve because there would be fuel running out of the float chamber overflow. Your SU pump is clicking all the time, usually slowly, because your one way valve is not holding pressure in the pump. If you must stick with originality then I recommend the solid state SU pump. The best option is a rotary vane aftermarket conversion.
 
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